48 hours In Philadelphia, What To See And Do.

TIPS & ARTICLES

ZORA O'NEILL

Lonely Planet Writer

History comes alive in Philadelphia, where you can stroll down cobbled alleys and into buildings depicted in famous paintings. But the city is much more than an open-air museum. Its indoor museums are world-class too, and there’s a distinct local culture (those Mummers, for one thing; cheesesteaks for another) and a great arts and music scene.

Pat's King of Steaks offers a variety of options, from left to right – pizza cheesesteak, steak with provolone, steak with cheez whiz and the steak with cheez whiz topped with hot peppers © Getty / The Washington Post

Day 1

Morning in the Old City

Get oriented with the past with a stroll around Independence National Historic Park, a swath of the oldest part of Philadelphia. The main must-see is Independence Hall, where the Declaration of Independence was signed. Other interesting museums include the excellent Benjamin Franklin Museum and the super-lively National Constitution Center. Otherwise, just poke your head in any building on the map that catches your fancy – entrance is free to most of them.

Lunch, historically

Restore your energy with an elegant cheese plate – or a big, gooey pressed sandwich – at Wedge + Fig on N 2nd St – conveniently close toElfreth’s Alley, another neat Old City spot that’s worth a peek. Save plenty of room for dessert at Franklin Fountain, an exceptionally fabulous old-time ice-cream shop. No sweet tooth? Grownups can get their history fix with a cocktail at Olde Bar a revamped old tavern that serves drinks by day and oysters and other Philly seafood standards by night.

This colorful row of houses sits along historic Elfreth's Alley, in the Old City District © Getty / Richard Cummins

Afternoon at institutions

Head northwest to Benjamin Franklin Parkway, which leads to the storied steps of the Philadelphia Museum of Art – you may recognize them from that scene in Rocky. The museum’s interior is so full of treasures that an admission ticket is good for two days – so don’t feel compelled to see everything in one go.

Nearby is Eastern State Penitentiary, which is not only fascinating in its spooky, derelict state but also informative about the history of incarceration, and often featuring great art installations.

If you’re in need of an afternoon pick-me-up, keep an eye out for cafes serving La Colombe coffee, roasted in Philly for decades. Or visit themothership near Rittenhouse Square.

The Philadelphia Museum of Art at sunset © Getty / Joe Daniel Price

Dinner and a glass of wine

Thanks to Pennsylvania’s arcane liquor laws, it’s often easier for restaurants to go BYOB, and Philadelphia has an excellent selection. Pick up your bottle(s) first at Fine Wine & Good Spirits, the state-run liquor store, then head to Little Nonna’s for a meal of refined Italian-American food. Or if you prefer not to self-cater, head for Tria, an excellent local wine bar. Both are in a beautiful, tree-lined stretch of Philadelphia; leave time to stroll around and look down old alleys.

Evening in the Center City

Taste Philadelphia’s casual bar scene at places like Monk’s Café, dedicated to Belgian brews and local craft beers, or, if you prefer your beer cheap and chuggable, Dirty Franks, a reclaimed Center City dive that serves boatloads of Yuengling and PBR. Also pop your head inMcGillin’s Olde Ale House, where 'olde' is an understatement – it’s been open since 1860. If your night goes late, swing south to Pat’s King of Steaks, where the iconic Philly cheesesteak was born; handily, it’s open 24 hours.

Day 2

Morning in museums

Fuel up for a day of sightseeing with stuffed French toast at Sabrina’s, then head to the Philadelphia Museum of Art for a second pass. Or break new ground at the amazing Barnes Foundation, where the European and African artworks are arranged precisely according to the eccentric collector’s specifications – it’s a sort of game to discern the connections.

The Barnes Foundation maintains and displays of the world's leading collections of French impressionist and post-impressionist paintings © Getty / John Lovette

Market lunch

Work up an appetite for lunch at a free noontime concert of theWanamaker Organ, a massive pipe organ installed in Macy’s. Then head for Reading Terminal Market, where stands sell all kinds of cuisine, from Thai to Pennsylvania Dutch; don’t miss the butter-dipped pretzels.

The market can get astonishingly crowded on weekends, though – if that’s the case, head for Sansom and S 17th Sts, a convenient nexus of good snack foods: Federal Donuts has delectably light donuts and Korean-style ultra-crispy fried chicken. Across the street is the antidote: super-fresh hummus at Dizengoff, which mimics shops in Tel Aviv. Around the corner are the wonderfully buttery lobster rolls at Luke’s Lobster.

Afternoon in the South

Tour South Philly, starting at the beautiful ongoing art project that isPhiladelphia’s Magic Gardens, on South St. Then head for the bounty of the Italian Market, stopping for cappuccino as you browse the food stores and stalls. From here, pick your favorite Philly oddity: visit theMummers Museum to learn about the proud working-class culture behind the colorful New Year’s Day parade, or opt for the Mutter Museum if you’re a fan of morbid anatomy.

 A  view of Philadelphia's Magic Gardens by mosaic artist Isaiah Zagar on South Street in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. The Magic Gardens spans three lots including indoor galleries and is made from a variety of materials china to bottles to tire wheels © Getty / Paul Marotta

Dinner Italian-style

East Passyunk Avenue, which cuts diagonally through South Philly, is a booming restaurant row. Book ahead for a table at Le Virtu, renowned for its meticulous recreation of the cuisine of central Italy, or Brigantessa, a more casual place by the same chef, serving excellent crisp pizza with a long beer list. 

Edgy arts at night

Head back north to what locals have dubbed the ‘Eraserhood,’ a gritty area that inspired onetime resident David Lynch’s filmmaking. The excellent Trestle Inn is here, serving up cocktails and go-go dancers straight from the 1960s. Also in the area is PhilaMOCA (philamoca.org) – that stands for Mausoleum of Contemporary Art – for eclectic arts programming. Farther north, check the schedules at Union Transferand Johnny Brenda’s, two great venues for live shows; Johnny Brenda’s also has a good bar for hanging out.

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Getting around

Central Philadelphia is small enough that you can walk most places. But the SEPTA transit system (buses, a metro, even an underground trolley) is fast and effective. Payment is shifting from tokens (phasing out in 2016) to a stored-value card as part of the SEPTA Key program – either way, buy in bulk for discounted fares.