PARIS (AP) — The head of France’s state rail company has sounded the alarm over the future of the Eurostar train service, which connects the U.K. with continental Europe and has been hurt badly by the halt to travel during the pandemic as well as Brexit.
Jean-Pierre Farandou, the CEO of SNCF, which owns 55% of Eurostar, told France Inter radio on Tuesday that “the situation is very critical for Eurostar.”
Passenger numbers on the cross-Channel train service - which reaches U.K., France, Belgium and Holland - have been down 95% since March and are currently believed to be less than 1% of pre-pandemic levels.
It comes days after U.K. business leaders called for a British government rescue of the Channel Tunnel rail operator as border closures enforced to stop a highly contagious virus variant threatened to push the service toward the brink of collapse.
Farandou noted that “today, there is one round trip that runs between London and Paris, and one other that runs between London and Brussels-Amsterdam. And these trains are 10% full.”
Farandou is counting on government aid, as was provided for airlines, but is all too aware of how difficult it will be as there are multiple governments involved.
“We have to see how we manage to help this company in the way that airlines have been helped. It would not be unusual for Eurostar to receive aid to get through this bad patch.”
He said that SNCF has “already put money back into Eurostar’s capital to help,” and the company is in discussions with the French and British governments.
Eurostar has asked for access to the same secured loans as airlines, and a temporary reduction on track access charges it pays to use the U.K.’s only stretch of high-speed rail line.
It said in a statement that its situation was “very serious. Without additional funding from government there is a real risk to the survival of Eurostar, the green gateway to Europe.”
Eurostar CEO Jacques Damas has also said the company hopes the four countries it serves will coordinate regarding virus-linked restrictions on travel.
In November, Damas wrote to British Chancellor Rishi Sunak asking for assistance after the U.K. Treasury announced it would help struggling airports.
Businesses in Britain have appealed to the U.K. government to prop up Eurostar.
London First, which represents scores of large property, retail and tourism businesses in the capital, wrote to the government over the weekend urging the U.K. government not to let Eurostar “fall between the cracks of support” offered to airlines and domestic railways.
“Maintaining this international high-speed rail connection into the heart of London has never been more important,” the letter said. “Having left the European Union, we need to actively set out our stall as an attractive destination for people to live, work and play.
“Safeguarding the future of this connection to the continent should be a symbol of both our desire to build back better and our new cooperative relationship with our European neighbours.”
Britain’s Department for Transport said it recognized “the significant financial challenges” Eurostar faced because of the pandemic.
“We will continue to work closely with them as we support the safe restart and recovery of international travel,” it said.
Showing posts with label Eurostar. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Eurostar. Show all posts
Wednesday, January 20, 2021
Wednesday, February 5, 2020
Amsterdam-London Nonstop Train Service To Start May 18th.
THE HAGUE, Netherlands (AP) — A nonstop train from Amsterdam to London will begin services at the end of April, the Dutch government announced Tuesday February 4th.
Roger van Boxtel, president-director of Dutch rail company NS, said the new service will improve transport ties between the Netherlands and Britain despite the U.K.’s departure from the European Union last week.
“Brexit or not, from April 30 London is getting closer,” he said in a statement.
Passengers can already travel nonstop from London to Amsterdam, but people going in the other direction have to change trains and go through passport formalities in Brussels. A new agreement between the Netherlands, Belgium, France and the United Kingdom means that passengers will now go through passport checks in Amsterdam before boarding the train.
“The direct connection makes the train journey to London easier and in particular quicker,” said Dutch Minister for Infrastructure and Water Cora van Nieuwenhuizen.
She said that cutting the travel time by about an hour means that “the train will really become a viable alternative to the airplane.”
The British government also hailed the start of direct Amsterdam to London Eurostar services.
Transport Secretary Grant Shapps went to St. Pancras station on Tuesday for the arrival of a special preview train from the Dutch capital.
“The days of passengers being forced to decamp from the train at Brussels to file through passport control will soon be over, as we look forward to direct, return, high-speed services to Amsterdam and beyond,” he said
One-way tickets start at 40 euros ($44).
The train will take about four hours to travel from Amsterdam Central Station to St. Pancras in London, via the tunnel under the English Channel. A direct service from the port city of Rotterdam to London will begin May 18.
Sunday, May 10, 2015
Lyon City Guide: What To See Plus The Best Bars, Restaurants And Hotels
Open-air swimming pool on the Quai Claude Bernard by the river Rhône river Photograph: Alamy
There was an altercation at the boarding gate for the flight from Lyon to Gatwick last Monday. A passenger was officiously informed that her handbag was her one allocated item of cabin luggage and she would have to check her micro-suitcase into the hold. “Just you wait, mate,” she snapped. “Your days are numbered when Eurostar starts coming here direct.”
While that’s probably not true, the direct rail link from London will help bring France’s second-largest city to the forefront of many more minds as a short-break destination. And it will ease any angst over luggage – because you will be sorely tempted by the array of wines, cheeses and charcuterie that are available in France’s gastronomic capital.
Lyon is more than ready for any rush. Over the past couple of decades, the city has established itself as a cultural hub with an innovative bill of annual events. In the coming 12 months, it will host the Nuits Sonores electronic music festival (13-17 May), Les Nuits de Fourvière music and drama festival (2 June-31 July), theBiennale de Lyon for art and dance (10 Sept-3 Jan), the Lumière film festival(October) the Fête des Lumières contemporary light show (December), and theBocuse d’Or chefs’ competition (January). And it is building a new football stadium in time for the 2016 European Championships.

But probably the biggest symbol of Lyon’s cultural ambition is the regeneration of its former docklands. Known as La Confluence, because it sits at the meeting point of the Saône and Rhône rivers, the €3bn public and privately funded project started in 2003 and is scheduled to finish between 2025 and 2030. It will double the size of the Presqu’île – the heart of the city – and create “a sustainable neighbourhood for all”, according to Pierre Joutard, director general of the body running the project. “We wanted to build a mixed neighbourhood, with tall and low buildings, old and new, and all different shapes,” he said. “We don’t want a boring city.”
With its starchitecture, media centres, tech start-ups and warehouse hipster vibe, this new quarter gives a fresh face to a city that was the ancient capital of Gaul, flourished as a silk-weaving centre during the Renaissance, became a stronghold of the resistance in the second world war, and a gastronomic superpower in the 20th century under chef Paul Bocuse. Here are my highlights:
What to see
Musée des Confluences
This futuristic building is the beacon of the redevelopment scheme, a radical design of twisted steel, concrete and glass – Lyon’s answer to Bilbao’s Guggenheim - designed by Coop Himmelb(l)au. “It is the first thing people see when they enter the city from the south. We hope it makes them want to stop and explore,” says Nicolas Dupont, head of collections and exhibitions. It has already attracted more than 300,000 visitors since it opened in December, and tells the story of mankind through a collection of two million objects, including a 1,000 year-old mummy and a piece of moon rock. It’s an extraordinary building, housing a cabinet of curiosities that addresses complex subjects such as origins and evolution in an imaginative and innovative way.
• 86 Quai Perrache, museedesconfluences.fr, closed Mon, €9
Musée des Beaux Arts
Known as the mini Louvre, because of the fine collection of masters, including Rubens, Rembrandt, Manet, Monet, Pissarro, Dégas, Cézanne, Rodin, Picasso, Braque, Dufy and Bacon. Unlike the Louvre, there’s no queue, and your enjoyment of the paintings is not compromised by the backs of people’s heads. It also has a tranquil courtyard and an airy terraced cafe.
• 20 Place des Terreaux, mba-lyon.fr, closed Tues, €7
Known as the mini Louvre, because of the fine collection of masters, including Rubens, Rembrandt, Manet, Monet, Pissarro, Dégas, Cézanne, Rodin, Picasso, Braque, Dufy and Bacon. Unlike the Louvre, there’s no queue, and your enjoyment of the paintings is not compromised by the backs of people’s heads. It also has a tranquil courtyard and an airy terraced cafe.
• 20 Place des Terreaux, mba-lyon.fr, closed Tues, €7
Street art

A series of impressively large murals painted by the CitéCréation cooperative are dotted around the city, and tell the story of Lyon’s neighbourhoods and its most famous citizens. There are around 100, some of which you can follow on amapped trail like a huge pictorial guidebook. The wall depicting the history of the Canuts (silk weavers) in the Croix-Rousse neighbourhood (Boulevard des Canuts and Rue Denfert Rochereau) was the first to be painted 30 years ago, and is updated every 10 years. The Fresque des Lyonnais (Quai Saint-Vincent and Rue de la Martinière) represents 30 people who “made Lyon”, including author Antoine de Saint-Exupéry, the first film-makers in history Auguste and Louis Lumière, director Bertrand Tavernier and master chef Paul Bocuse.
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Traboules
These networks of covered alleyways and stairs linked courtyards and homes to the river from medieval times, and in the Croix Rousse district they allowed thecanuts (silk weavers) to transport their goods without them getting wet. Some are still open to the public, identified by discreet signs. The traboules also served as escape routes and hiding places during the German occupation. One traboule,Passage Thiaffait, is now the Village des Createurs – an incubator site for fashion brands and designers, with workshops, cafes and showrooms.
• Lyon tourist office has an iPhone app mapping the traboules for 79p
These networks of covered alleyways and stairs linked courtyards and homes to the river from medieval times, and in the Croix Rousse district they allowed thecanuts (silk weavers) to transport their goods without them getting wet. Some are still open to the public, identified by discreet signs. The traboules also served as escape routes and hiding places during the German occupation. One traboule,Passage Thiaffait, is now the Village des Createurs – an incubator site for fashion brands and designers, with workshops, cafes and showrooms.
• Lyon tourist office has an iPhone app mapping the traboules for 79p
Parc de la Tête d’Or
Jump on one of Lyon’s Vélo’v rental bikes, and cycle along the Rhone to explore the city’s green lung. An ornamental park with a lake, boules courts and zoo, it’s next to the Musée d’Art Contemporain (81 Quai Charles de Gaulle, €6) in a building designed by Renzo Piano, with a Buckminster Fuller dome outside. Come summertime, you will be able to cycle back down the river for a dip in the outdoor pools of the Centre Nautique du Rhone (8 Quai Claude Bernard, €8).
Jump on one of Lyon’s Vélo’v rental bikes, and cycle along the Rhone to explore the city’s green lung. An ornamental park with a lake, boules courts and zoo, it’s next to the Musée d’Art Contemporain (81 Quai Charles de Gaulle, €6) in a building designed by Renzo Piano, with a Buckminster Fuller dome outside. Come summertime, you will be able to cycle back down the river for a dip in the outdoor pools of the Centre Nautique du Rhone (8 Quai Claude Bernard, €8).
Where to eat
Les Halles Paul Bocuse

In a city of 4,000 restaurants and 15 Michelin stars, there’s one place where every Lyonnais comes to shop and eat at some point – the covered market bearing the name of the superstar chef. It can be pricey, but the local produce is dazzling – rows of hanging saucisson, brioches with a rich seam of saucisson inside, cheeses in the shape of France, lurid-looking praline tarts, cepe- and foie gras-flavoured macaroons ... It’s liveliest on Sunday mornings. I started with oysters and a glass of Macon at a bar then moved to the cosy Chez les Gones restaurant near the entrance of the market for pike quenelle in crayfish sauce, creamy gratin dauphinois and Saint-Marcellin cheese from local legend La Mère Richard.
• 102 cours Lafayette, halles-de-lyon-paulbocuse.com, closed Mon
Le Canut et Les Gones
If Chez les Gones is an old-fashioned Lyonnais bouchon, then Le Canut et Les Gones (The Silk Worker and the Lyon Kids) offers a modern twist. In the gentrified Croix Rousse quarter, its light and convivial dining rooms are decked out in salvaged retro fixtures and its Lyonnais set menu offers thin slices of tête de veau with pork scratchings, potatoes and tarragon; gratin of andouillete sausage with grain mustard; and tarte aux pommes.
• 29 rue Belfort, +33 4 7829 1723, lecanutetlesgones.com, closed Sun and Mon, menus from €24.70
• 29 rue Belfort, +33 4 7829 1723, lecanutetlesgones.com, closed Sun and Mon, menus from €24.70
Cafe Sillon
I ate more classic Lyonnais food at Le Bouchon des Filles, modern cuisine atBrasserie des Confluences, Japanese-French fusion at Do Mo, and even sandwiches du terroir at Gourmix, but one place stood out. Mathieu Rostaing’s pared-back place on the left bank of the Rhone has only been open for a year, but his short menu of innovative food has already made its mark. I had a starter of tempura-fried wild Mediterranean prawns with duck’s heart and liver, then a main course of pollack with petits pois, spring onions, olives, rhubarb, cockles and chorizo. Pudding was white choclate mousse with nettles, candied sea lettuce and passionfruit sauce. It’s what they call a neo-bistro – and I would walk through walls for a chance to eat that meal again.
• 46 avenue Jean Jaures, +33 4 78 72 09 73, facebook.com/restaurantcafesillon, closed Sun and Mon, three courses €35
I ate more classic Lyonnais food at Le Bouchon des Filles, modern cuisine atBrasserie des Confluences, Japanese-French fusion at Do Mo, and even sandwiches du terroir at Gourmix, but one place stood out. Mathieu Rostaing’s pared-back place on the left bank of the Rhone has only been open for a year, but his short menu of innovative food has already made its mark. I had a starter of tempura-fried wild Mediterranean prawns with duck’s heart and liver, then a main course of pollack with petits pois, spring onions, olives, rhubarb, cockles and chorizo. Pudding was white choclate mousse with nettles, candied sea lettuce and passionfruit sauce. It’s what they call a neo-bistro – and I would walk through walls for a chance to eat that meal again.
• 46 avenue Jean Jaures, +33 4 78 72 09 73, facebook.com/restaurantcafesillon, closed Sun and Mon, three courses €35
Where to drink
Cafe la Fourmilière
Lyon is within easy access of the north and south Côtes du Rhône, Burgundy and Beaujolais, and most places will offer a good choice of wines – Macon, Condrieu, Fleurie, Côte de Beaune, Crozes Hermitages, Morgon, Châteauneuf du Pape – at €3-4 a glass. Come to this bar, just down the road from Cafe Sillon, however, for a good local vibe, craft beers on tap and in bottles, and free gigs, DJs and performances.
• 15 rue Salomon Reinach, lafourmiliere-cafe.fr
Lyon is within easy access of the north and south Côtes du Rhône, Burgundy and Beaujolais, and most places will offer a good choice of wines – Macon, Condrieu, Fleurie, Côte de Beaune, Crozes Hermitages, Morgon, Châteauneuf du Pape – at €3-4 a glass. Come to this bar, just down the road from Cafe Sillon, however, for a good local vibe, craft beers on tap and in bottles, and free gigs, DJs and performances.
• 15 rue Salomon Reinach, lafourmiliere-cafe.fr
Le Sucre
The bar and club on the roof of La Sucrière – a culture and exhibition space in a former sugar factory in La Confluence – is at the forefront of the city’s music scene. The non-profit association behind it, Arty Farty, organises the Nuits Sonores electronic music festival, which is in its 13th year and has put Lyon on the international music map, with artists such as Laurent Garnier, Kraftwerk and, this year, Jamie xx.
• 50 quai Rimbaud, le-sucre.eu
The bar and club on the roof of La Sucrière – a culture and exhibition space in a former sugar factory in La Confluence – is at the forefront of the city’s music scene. The non-profit association behind it, Arty Farty, organises the Nuits Sonores electronic music festival, which is in its 13th year and has put Lyon on the international music map, with artists such as Laurent Garnier, Kraftwerk and, this year, Jamie xx.
• 50 quai Rimbaud, le-sucre.eu
Sonic
Of the many barges on the Saône river, this venue is recommended by Guillaume Duchêne of Arty Farty for noise music, underground bands and a Dark 80s DJ party every weekend.
• 4 quai des Étroits, sonic-lyon.blogspot.com
Of the many barges on the Saône river, this venue is recommended by Guillaume Duchêne of Arty Farty for noise music, underground bands and a Dark 80s DJ party every weekend.
• 4 quai des Étroits, sonic-lyon.blogspot.com
Where to stay
Hotel Okko

One of a chain of nine boutique hotels across France, Okko offers a “club room” instead of a restaurant, with free hot and soft drinks and snacks throughout the day, sofas, Apple computers, magazines and books. The rooms are compact with clean lines, neutral carpets, desk, Nespresso machine and pod-like shower room-cum-toilet with white louvred slats for modesty. It’s just across the Lafayette Bridge from the Presqu’île district.
• Doubles from €90 B&B, +33 4 28 00 02 50, lyonlafayette.okkohotels.com
• Doubles from €90 B&B, +33 4 28 00 02 50, lyonlafayette.okkohotels.com
Le Collège

This school-themed hotel in the old town has a refectory-style breakfast room stuffed with old books, posters, blackboards and comfy leather sofas. The rooms are bright white. A big draw is the rooftop terrace and the location off the paved alleys of the old town, handy for the Fourvière Basilica and the Gallo-Roman theatre and museum.
• Doubles from €130 room-only, +33 4 72 10 05 05, college-hotel.com
• Doubles from €130 room-only, +33 4 72 10 05 05, college-hotel.com
Locals’ tips
Le Café du Rhône
Recommended by Pierre-Marie Oullion, artistic director, Arty Farty
The oldest cafe in Lyon has a new young owner and team. This is the place to eat, meet, hear concerts and dance all in one place.
• 23 quai Victor Augagneur, facebook.com/cafedurhone
Recommended by Pierre-Marie Oullion, artistic director, Arty Farty
The oldest cafe in Lyon has a new young owner and team. This is the place to eat, meet, hear concerts and dance all in one place.
• 23 quai Victor Augagneur, facebook.com/cafedurhone
Ti Amo MariaRecommended by Pierre Joutard, director general SPL LyonThis little Italian restaurant run by Luigi in La Confluence near our offices is exotic, delicious and friendly. Perfect before going for a drink at Le Sucre.
• 16 rue Casimir Périer, facebook.com/pages/Ti-Amo-Maria
• 16 rue Casimir Périer, facebook.com/pages/Ti-Amo-Maria
Canal flea market in Villeurbanne Recommended by Nicolas Dupont, Musée des ConfluencesVilleurbanne is a city that borders Lyon, and the flea markets cover a vast space with antique shops and second-hand dealers. I go on a Sunday morning to find antiques, but also to have breakfast at the bakery Bettant (patisserie-boulangerie-bettant.fr).
Le Court-Circuit
Recommended by Jérémie Masurel, owner of street art gallery and cafe Slika
This is a popular bar-restaurant co-operative in the revived seventh arrondissement, with regular concerts in its vegetable gardens.
• 13 rue Jangot, le-court-circuit.fr
Recommended by Jérémie Masurel, owner of street art gallery and cafe Slika
This is a popular bar-restaurant co-operative in the revived seventh arrondissement, with regular concerts in its vegetable gardens.
• 13 rue Jangot, le-court-circuit.fr
• Eurostar fares to Lyon from London St Pancras start at £89 return. Journey time is four hours and 40 minutes. The trip was provided by OnlyLyon (OnlyLyon.com)
Contributed byAndy Pietrasik, www.theguardian.com
Follow us on Twitter: @TraveloreReport
Saturday, April 25, 2015
Marseille City Guide: What To See Plus The Best Bars, Restaurants And Hotels
The new direct Eurostar service to the south of France will only take 6.5 hours to reach Marseille from London, also stopping at Lyon and Avignon. Kim Willsher, with the help of local blogger Elodie Van Zele, checks out the spectacular Mediterranean port’s most happening restaurants, shops, bars and places to stay
In the 2,600 or so years since the Greeks landed and named it Massalia, the French port of Marseille has welcomed waves of diverse and colourful visitors. After the Greeks came Persians, Romans, Visigoths, Russians, Armenians, Vietnamese, Corsicans, Spanish and north Africans – all leaving their distinct imprint on the city.
Now the British are on their way, as tourists transported to France’s Mediterranean gateway by a direct Eurostar service from London, which launches on 1 May and takes only 6½ hours.
Good timing, because Marseille is on the crest of a creative and entrepreneurial wave that began in 2013, its year as European City of Culture, which boosted its vitality.
Here are some of its delights as revealed to me on a tour by Elodie Van Zele, a Parisienne, who came to Marseille and never left and who reveals its secrets for her blog Chut Mon SecThe Panier district

Once gritty and run-down, the increasingly trendy Panier district in the heart of the city is delineated by the 17th-century Fort Saint-Jean at its southern tip, and the unmissable Museum of European and Mediterranean Civilisations (MuCEM), which opened in 2013, to the west. The museum can be reached by a walkway that connects the fort to the roof and terrace of the modern building – mixing the old and new has become a leitmotif of the city. Exhibitions at MuCEM this summer include Shared Holy Places (until 31 Aug) and Traces … Fragments of a Contemporary Tunisia (13 May-28 Sept).
Past the fishermen’s church of Saint Laurent is Schilling (37 rue Caisserie), a 24-cover restaurant opened by Scotsman Malcolm Gardner, who buys his fish off the boats each morning and plans his daily menu accordingly. His Highland take on French classic dishes involves lashings of whisky, and his mum Zöe brings out suitcases of cheddar cheese.
In need of a snack, we pop into Dunk for a bagel before strolling around the Place de Lenche, the former Greek agora, or market place, which has cafes and cosy theatres. On hot days, Elodie recommends an ice-cream from artisanglacier Vanille Noire. They are handmade in familiar and exotic flavours every day by Nicolas, who says his passion for all things sweet was inspired by Roald Dahl’s Charlie and the Chocolate Factory.
Où est Marius? is a wonderfully eccentric shop run by Audrey Novara, whose eclectic stock of local produce includes tinned sardines, Carmargue knives, ceramics by Anne Boscolo-Cavin, and poutargue de muge (mullet roe, nicknamed Provençal caviar). But never mind where Marius is, who is Marius? He is in fact the title character of a play by local writer Marcel Pagnol (who wrote the book that cult film Jean de Florette was based on), says Audrey.
Tucked away in a narrow street behind City Hall, Patrick Veillet’s black-mirrored scent and jewellery shop N-Cigale, sells products inspired by a Provençal icon, the cicada.

The city is famous for its savon de Marseille (soap) but, buyers should be aware that only five “real” soap producers remain, including La Grande Savonnerie, on the edge of the Panier/Vieux Port districts. Owner Sylvain Dijon says that only the kind made with olive oil – for cakes of green cosmetic soap – and with added palm oil for liquid soap, with no colour or perfume, are the genuine article. He and his partners are continuing the centuries-old tradition with a modern twist; customers are invited to stamp their own Marseille soap.
Palais de Justice district
At Chez Georgiana, Georgiana Viou, a finalist in the French MasterChef TV show, cooks lunch while fielding bises on the cheeks from customers and smiling expansively. Her menu – today it’s spinach salad, sea bream with black rice, and rice pudding with fresh strawberries – sounds simple but has a strong undercurrent of exotic flavours. Culinary journalist Anne Garabedian says Georgiana’s cooking is an example of Marseille’s gastronomic renaissance: “In Marseille, people speak of a before and an after 2013. A restaurant like this wouldn’t have survived five years ago, but now it’s packed. The culture year whipped everyone up and our challenge is to harness this energy and keep it going.”
Elodie decides we need to walk off lunch with a visit to the nearby Jardin Montgrand, an ever-changing store selling high-fashion clothes, art and designer furniture, and with an inviting garden cafe. As we leave I am pressed to accept an extraordinary biscuit and lemon mousse “John Lemon” pattisserie made by Clement Higgins of Bricoleur de Douceurs.
In Rue Paradis, one of Marseille’s longest streets, is perfume and accessories storeJogging. The former butcher’s shop still has the Boucherie sign outside, and shelves with meat hooks inside but, otherwise, cutting-edge style is the règle du jour.
Vieux-Port district

Marseille’s old port is hardly a secret, but the art of visiting is in the timing. Aim to go there at around 8.30am, when fishermen empty their buckets on to stands while locals with weathered faces jostle to pick through the flip-flopping fish for the best of the day’s catch.
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If you’re looking to relax with a portside pastis as the sun goes down, you can’t go far wrong in any of the bars lining the Vieux-Port, but for food you might want to be more picky. Le Poulpe run by old schoolfriends Michel Ankri and Michel Portos, sources most of its food locally, but has received mixed reviews, namely over service. However, a dinner with bonito, a member of the tuna family, served with crisp vegetables on the terrace on a warm early spring evening gives nothing to complain about, and three courses will only set you back about €26, including wine.
There are so many places to go and see, but an evening in Marseille has to start somewhere, and tonight it’s the Saint Victor area, and Fietje Cave à Bières, to sample some of the 10 draft and 30 bottled beers. From there it’s a short stroll to the Marché St-Victor, a mix of indoor market and lively food hall where six independent stand-holders sell drinks and food to eat in or take away.
Here we find Pamela Pappalardo holding court, and she plies us with delicious Corsican cheese and charcuterie accompanied by glasses of wine she described as having the “character of tenebrous men”. Her partner Jeremie Depieds established the market with associate Brice Ruoppolo (who is doing a roaring trade in Spanish bellota ham at €179 a kilo). The trio are typical of Marseille’s dynamic new generation of entrepreneurs, who are challenging France’s obstinate economic crisis and setting up on their own.
“One day we just said: ‘Let’s do it’,” says Pamela. “It’s risky and hard work, but passionate.”
On the rue again, and Elodie and I duck into La Velada, where the barman proffers a plain brown envelope containing the message: “Pour Kim W. Le code est 0705A.”
He points to a dimly lit corridor and a bookcase with an electronic pad. I punch in the number and the bookshelf swishes aside, revealing a staircase, at the top of which is another restaurant. Elodie giggles like a schoolgirl and I assume the joke is on me. Mais non! This is Il Clandestino. Here, chef Jérome Benoît creates delicious nouvelle cuisine versions of traditional French fare, such as the famousbouillabaisse fish stew. Reservations are a must.
If bread is regarded with almost religious significance in France, then Pierre Ragot is one of its high priests. Pierre spends his days, and sometimes nights, at his boulangeries, dreaming up ways of making new bread: with bacon, with mustard, truffles, harissa, curry, chestnuts, olives, caramel, berries … Many are in baskets on the table in Il Clandestino. “I’m a bit of a poet when it comes to bread, and I love to invent new ones,” he says. “When I was 17 years old, I knew bread would be my life and my soul, and it is.”
La Belle de Mai

The labyrinthine backstreets of this district echo with the muezzins’ call to prayer, and the Arabic chatter in the coffee shops is reminiscent of the Maghreb. Diagonally north from the city’s main station is the Friche, an arts and social project set up in a former tobacco factory. It is a vast state-funded “village” with functions including crêche, skate park, and theatre school (not yet opened) andatéliers (studios) occupied by a mix of artists, businesses and a local radio station. Sitting on the edge of one of Marseille’s poorest areas, the centre showcases the arts, and offers an extensive programme of events. From June to September, a massive roof area will host free DJ evenings every weekend, and free open-air cinema every Sunday in July and August.
After my tour, I speak to Magali di Duca of the Bouches-du-Rhone tourist office. “Marseille is very dynamic these days,” she says. “Once it was hard to get moving, but now people are fighting back, inspired and collaborating. The charm of Marseille is it’s a city but it’s kept the spirit of a local village.”
Where to stay
Les Lofts du Vieux Port
These two large loft apartments were created out of a warehouse and are just 120 metres from the Vieux Port. One sleeps eight (complete with suspended bed, kitchen and cinema room) and a second can sleep a couple and two children/young adults. They are decorated with retro touches, an old Italian moped here, a parking meter, road sign and petrol pump there, amid industrial furniture, from Greg & Co, a second-hand furniture shop opposite.
• Eight people from €450 a night, or four from €170 (if booked for three nights; the nightly prices are from €350 and €150 a night respectively), +33 6 6559 2963,loftduvieuxport.fr
• Eight people from €450 a night, or four from €170 (if booked for three nights; the nightly prices are from €350 and €150 a night respectively), +33 6 6559 2963,loftduvieuxport.fr
Alex Hotel
This 21-room boutique hotel, with its pretty inner courtyard, is a haven of tranquility near Saint Charles station, the Eurostar’s terminus.
Rooms blend modern, minimalist interior design with a classic Marseille exterior.
• Doubles from €120, +33 4 13 24 13 24, alex-hotel.fr
Rooms blend modern, minimalist interior design with a classic Marseille exterior.
• Doubles from €120, +33 4 13 24 13 24, alex-hotel.fr
Hotel Dieu
This building, just east of the Panier, was once a grand hospital but is now an even grander Intercontinental hotel. If your budget doesn’t stretch above €200 a night, the view from the hotel’s elegant terrace is just about worth an expensive coffee.
• Doubles from €239, ihg.com
• Doubles from €239, ihg.com
Don’t Miss
The Calanques
For stunning coastal scenery, visit the jagged limestone coves and crystal clear waters of the Calanques national park between Marseilles and pretty Cassis, keeping an eye out for fearless climbers making tortuous progress up the rocks. Boat trips leave the Vieux-Port, and Cassis, every day. The park is also ideal for walkers.
La Cité RadieuseThe public can wander round La Cité Radieuse, Le Corbusier’s modern housing scheme in the south of Marseille, but you see more, including an apartment interior, on a guided visit run by the tourist office.
• €10/€5, in English at 10am on Saturdays, marseille-tourisme.com
• €10/€5, in English at 10am on Saturdays, marseille-tourisme.com
From: www.theguardian.com
• Eurostar (eurostar.com) fares to Marseille from London St Pancras start at £99 return. The trip was provided by the Marseille Tourist Office, the Bouches-du-Rhône Tourism Agency and the Provence-Alpes Côte d’Azur Tourism Board
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