Levers on the custom-made grill at Ox in Portland, Oregon, move food closer to—or farther from—the fire.Photo © Evan Sung
Flame-loving chefs are taking a grill-centric approach to cooking, elevating humankind's oldest and simplest culinary technique into its tastiest. Here are 8 excellent new places around the country.
A.KITCHEN, PHILADELPHIA
Chef Eli Kulp grills over Japanese-inspired hardwood charcoal. akitchenandbar.com.
Chef Eli Kulp grills over Japanese-inspired hardwood charcoal. akitchenandbar.com.
ARC, COSTA MESA, CA
The giant stack of firewood in the dining room is the only fuel at this neo-primitive spot. arcrestaurant.com.
The giant stack of firewood in the dining room is the only fuel at this neo-primitive spot. arcrestaurant.com.
LA BRASA, SOMERVILLE, MA
Raised in Hermosillo—Mexico's unofficial carne asada capital—Daniel Bojorquez is a grill virtuoso. labrasasomerville.com.
Raised in Hermosillo—Mexico's unofficial carne asada capital—Daniel Bojorquez is a grill virtuoso. labrasasomerville.com.
OX, PORTLAND, OR
At this tiny Argentinean-style restaurant, grilled-meat juices become an umami-rich basting oil. oxpdx.com.
At this tiny Argentinean-style restaurant, grilled-meat juices become an umami-rich basting oil. oxpdx.com.
PENROSE, OAKLAND, CA
Charlie Hallowell turns out both perfectly cooked chops and impeccably charred flatbreads.penroseoakland.com.
Charlie Hallowell turns out both perfectly cooked chops and impeccably charred flatbreads.penroseoakland.com.
TBD, SAN FRANCISCO
The open kitchen has four fire-focused sections: a mesh grill for tiny items like fava beans, a cast-iron plancha for breads, a grill grate for meat and a hearth for ember roasting.tbdrestaurant.com.
The open kitchen has four fire-focused sections: a mesh grill for tiny items like fava beans, a cast-iron plancha for breads, a grill grate for meat and a hearth for ember roasting.tbdrestaurant.com.
DEATH & TAXES, RALEIGH, NC
Ashley Christensen will use fire to coax deep flavors from vegetables at her next restaurant, opening this fall. ac-restaurants.com.
Ashley Christensen will use fire to coax deep flavors from vegetables at her next restaurant, opening this fall. ac-restaurants.com.
OVENBIRD, BIRMINGHAM, AL
The flame-driven cuisines of Europe and South America inspire Chris Hastings's new project, slated to open this summer. Coming soon.
The flame-driven cuisines of Europe and South America inspire Chris Hastings's new project, slated to open this summer. Coming soon.
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