Fort over … the Alcázar of Toledo dominates the city. The fortress was the scene of a lengthy siege during the Spanish civil war. Photograph: Alamy
Spain’s one-time capital is shaking off its austere, pious image. Now, with its innovative restaurants and hotels, plus cultural sights, Toledo merits more than a day trip from Madrid
Capital of Spain until 1563 – when the honor passed to the fly-blown village of Madrid, 46 miles away – Toledo, in Castilla-La Mancha, has become a classic day-trip destination (it’s just a half-hour hop from its neighbor by high-speed rail). But with its huge haul of churches and convents, mosques and synagogues, not to mention its food (manchego cheeses, powerful red wines, and marzipan in multiple forms), the city deserves more than a brush-by.
Toledo used to have a reputation for being somewhat pious and austere, but there are signs of change: a new wave of gastro-tapas bars, medieval interiors being overlaid with modern chic. I advise avoiding the heat of high summer – and enjoying a smug smile come evening, as the daytrippers head back to the capital, missing the city’s nocturnal charm.
What to see
Classic sights
Saint Mary’s cathedral is a Gothic monster with a bell tower that looks like a space rocket designed by Tim Burton. Less visited is the mighty monastery of San Juan de los Reyes, built by Queen Isabella in the 15th century as a family mausoleum. The city’s Judería (Jewish quarter) is home to at least two of Toledo’s top 10 treasures: the medieval synagogues of Santa María La Blanca and El Tránsito.
Saint Mary’s cathedral is a Gothic monster with a bell tower that looks like a space rocket designed by Tim Burton. Less visited is the mighty monastery of San Juan de los Reyes, built by Queen Isabella in the 15th century as a family mausoleum. The city’s Judería (Jewish quarter) is home to at least two of Toledo’s top 10 treasures: the medieval synagogues of Santa María La Blanca and El Tránsito.
The El Greco trail
A Spanish critic writing in 1843 detailed the “notable defects” of El Greco’s work, its “eccentricity”, “dislocation of shape”, and “tasteless and dry use of colour”. After 170 years, his rehabilitation is complete, and for Toledo his elongated figures and pungent colours are now an object of civic pride, as Gaudí is for Barcelona. Last year Greco-mania gripped the city as it celebrated the 400th anniversary of his death. Check out the El Greco Museum, the only one in the country dedicated to the painter, but also take in an early masterpiece and the painter’s simple wooden tomb in the monastery of Santo Domingo el Antiguo, in the furthest reaches of the old town, and the great El Greco altarpiece of 1577, fresh from restoration, in the cathedral’s sacristy.
• Entry €3, open daily except Mon, 9.30-8pm, museodelgreco.mcu.es
A Spanish critic writing in 1843 detailed the “notable defects” of El Greco’s work, its “eccentricity”, “dislocation of shape”, and “tasteless and dry use of colour”. After 170 years, his rehabilitation is complete, and for Toledo his elongated figures and pungent colours are now an object of civic pride, as Gaudí is for Barcelona. Last year Greco-mania gripped the city as it celebrated the 400th anniversary of his death. Check out the El Greco Museum, the only one in the country dedicated to the painter, but also take in an early masterpiece and the painter’s simple wooden tomb in the monastery of Santo Domingo el Antiguo, in the furthest reaches of the old town, and the great El Greco altarpiece of 1577, fresh from restoration, in the cathedral’s sacristy.
• Entry €3, open daily except Mon, 9.30-8pm, museodelgreco.mcu.es
Senda Ecológica
When Toledo needs to breathe the fresh air, walk the dog, or see a bit of nature, it heads for the riverbank. The Senda Ecológica (ecology path) runs around the city from Saint Martin bridge in the west to Alcántara bridge in the east, following the craggy gorges of the Tagus. Oleanders and bullrushes whisper in the breeze and birds swoop low over the water. Far above loom the walls of the old town, with Arab ruins and miniature harbours completing the scene.
Santa Cruz MuseumThe second part of Cervantes’ Don Quixote of La Mancha was published 400 years ago this year, and Toledo’s Santa Cruz Museum is hosting two major exhibitions to celebrate. Spain During the Habsburg Years features works by El Greco, Luca Giordano and José de Ribera (until 30 September), and Spanish Fashion in the Golden Age (until 14 June) has clothes, shoes and jewellery as well as paintings.
• Entry €5, open daily 10am-8pm (2.30pm Sundays), Calle Cervantes 3
• Entry €5, open daily 10am-8pm (2.30pm Sundays), Calle Cervantes 3
Mercado de San Agustín
This new market, occupying a four-storey building in the heart of the casco histórico, follows the post-modern model of Madrid’s Mercado de San Miguel. The 23 stalls range from pincho and vermouth bars to shellfish, charcuterie and a branch of Spain’s leading patissier, Paco Torreblanca. The top-floor coctelería has effortlessly slid into pole position as Toledo’s trendiest bar.
• Open daily 10am-10pm (midnight at weekends), mercadodesanagustin.com
This new market, occupying a four-storey building in the heart of the casco histórico, follows the post-modern model of Madrid’s Mercado de San Miguel. The 23 stalls range from pincho and vermouth bars to shellfish, charcuterie and a branch of Spain’s leading patissier, Paco Torreblanca. The top-floor coctelería has effortlessly slid into pole position as Toledo’s trendiest bar.
• Open daily 10am-10pm (midnight at weekends), mercadodesanagustin.com
Where to eat (and drink)
Kumera
Pepe Mesa Garcia’s intelligent cooking (foie gras “marzipan”, deconstructed tortilla, panceta with scallops and mango) and fine position beside Toledo’s great Jesuit church at the top of the old town attract a faithful crowd of locals.
• Tasting menus from €25, Calle de Alfonso X El Sabio 2, +34 925 257553,restaurantekumera.com
Pepe Mesa Garcia’s intelligent cooking (foie gras “marzipan”, deconstructed tortilla, panceta with scallops and mango) and fine position beside Toledo’s great Jesuit church at the top of the old town attract a faithful crowd of locals.
• Tasting menus from €25, Calle de Alfonso X El Sabio 2, +34 925 257553,restaurantekumera.com
Restaurante Adolfo
Adolfo Muñoz is a king among Toledo restaurateurs and his family offers toledanohospitality at its best. The flagship of his mini-empire is this restaurant in a 12th-century townhouse with a medieval painted ceiling. Muñoz is known for his interpretations of traditional regional cooking, such as the city’s signature dish,perdiz (partridge) braised in wine, but his newer dishes have a surprising lightness of touch.
• Tasting menus from €58, Hombre de Palo 7, +34 925 227 321,adolforestaurante.com
Adolfo Muñoz is a king among Toledo restaurateurs and his family offers toledanohospitality at its best. The flagship of his mini-empire is this restaurant in a 12th-century townhouse with a medieval painted ceiling. Muñoz is known for his interpretations of traditional regional cooking, such as the city’s signature dish,perdiz (partridge) braised in wine, but his newer dishes have a surprising lightness of touch.
• Tasting menus from €58, Hombre de Palo 7, +34 925 227 321,adolforestaurante.com
Alfileritos 24
The menu at this three-storey restaurant is as original as the medieval-meets-modern interior. Try the wild mushroom croquetas, the red tuna tartare with seaweed and guacamole, and aubergines fried with honey and sesame.
• Three-course menú del dia €18.50, Calle Alfileritos 24, +34 925 239625,alfileritos24.com
• Three-course menú del dia €18.50, Calle Alfileritos 24, +34 925 239625,alfileritos24.com
Casa Ludeña
Once upon a time, most Spanish restaurants were like this low-ceilinged dining room with schoolroom furniture, rough floor tiles, house plants, and home-cooked regional cuisine. The three-course menú is a steal at €14.50 including wine.
• Plaza de la Magdalena 10, +34 925 223384
Once upon a time, most Spanish restaurants were like this low-ceilinged dining room with schoolroom furniture, rough floor tiles, house plants, and home-cooked regional cuisine. The three-course menú is a steal at €14.50 including wine.
• Plaza de la Magdalena 10, +34 925 223384
Bar TrébolThis popular tapas venue, down the steps from Plaza de Zocodover, has Roman foundations and the loveliest outdoor terraza in town. The speciality bomba (a meat-stuffed potato) begs to be tried.
• Mains from €8.30, no reservations, Calle Santa Fe 1, +34 925 281297,cerveceriatrebol.com
Where to stay
El Cigarral de las MercedesToledo’s cigarrales – out-of-town mansions set among gardens on the opposite bank of the Tagus – are generally off limits. However, El Cigarral de las Mercedes, a hotel owned by Fernando Lleida and his wife Jayne, from Minnesota, offers an up-close experience of cigarral architecture and lifestyle. The fancy decor of its 17 rooms might be a little excessive for some tastes, but the faultless upkeep, and comforts such as power showers, black-out blinds and full-length mirrors, are welcome. Four separate villas have hot tubs on their private terraces.
• Doubles from €240, +34 925 252064, cigarraldelasmercedes.com
• Doubles from €240, +34 925 252064, cigarraldelasmercedes.com
Antídoto Rooms
Toledo’s hotels tend to be old-fashioned chintz-fests, with gloomy Castilian furniture and way too many pelmets. As its name suggests, the Antídoto is a bit of a game-changer. Julio Romero, a born-and-bred toledano, has made this 16th-century townhouse, minutes from Plaza de Zocodover, into a contemporaryhotelito with cool polished stucco, Spanish pop art, stylish lighting and Eames chairs. There is little service, no breakfast, and an informal vibe.
• Doubles from €66, +34 925 228851, antidotorooms.com
• Doubles from €66, +34 925 228851, antidotorooms.com
Casa UrbanaThese apartments are the latest offering from the entrepreneurial Muñoz family. At €114 a night for a two-bedroom apartment in pleasant if muted modern style, they represent excellent value and a popular choice for family travellers.
• +34 925 227 321, grupoadolfo.com
Contributed by Paul Richardson, www.theguardian.com
• +34 925 227 321, grupoadolfo.com
Contributed by Paul Richardson, www.theguardian.com
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