When in Rome: Eat At The Restaurants the Tourists Don't Know About

Da Enzo

When I see innocent tourists in Rome fawning over frozen pizza and generic gelato, I just want to take them by their t-shirts, scrub their sticky, tiramisu-covered fingertips, and finally (basta!) feed them food that tastes like, well, Italy. Here are five, trusted Roman ristorantes that the tourist books don’t tell you about.

Da Enzo

Local Italians cherish this place (pictured above). They would protect it from all of us English-speakers if they could. Located in the most peaceful part of eastern Trastevere, this genuine Roman trattoria has a serious focus on quality of ingredients, with all their eggs, meat, wine and cheese being 100% organic. Here, the concept of “kilometer zero” is not a gimmick, but a religion—the olive oil comes from the verdant Viterbo area (north Lazio), all produce comes from nearby farms. The setting isn't fussy at all—clean and simple, with children's artwork hung on its sunshine yellow walls. But the food is out of this world. Da Enzo is especially known for its carciofi judia, cacio e pepe, stuffed zucchini blossoms, and perfectly-salted baccalà. My advice? Order anything with artichokes. (Via dei Vascellari 29; +39 06 58 12 260)

Osteria Bonelli

While Osteria Bonelli is not far from the chic Pignetto, the restaurant’s specific location in Torpignattara is on the side of seedy. And that nice-to-rough ratio—superb food on cheap paper tablecloths—is exactly what you’ll find inside this always-bustling osteria, where the dishes are truly exceptional and the waitresses, in their thick black eyeliner, know exactly what you want before you say a word (which is good because there are no menus). I lick my plate every time I eat there, inhaling the ricotta e spinaci ravioli and pasta alla gricia, guzzling the wonderful house red wine, before looking at the bill and crying out loud about how cheap it is. Of course, no one can understand me. The closest thing to English is a crooked, black and white framed photograph of Steve Jobs, with the quote, “Siate affamati! Siate folli!” Translation: “Stay Hungry. Stay Foolish.”(Viale dell'Acquedotto Alessandrino, 172; +39 329 863 3077)

Farinè

This National School of Pizza-trained husband and wife operation is no joke, with five strict selections of Roman-style pizza per night, with no substitutions, no exceptions, and no decisions – other than “beer or wine?” On the menu, you will find these options: Margarita, Mediterranean, Napoli, Marinara, Mozzarella & Anchovies and a seasonal Daily Special. Wife cooks, husband serves. The pizza is quickly sliced, and then unceremoniously delivered on a slab of paper (no plate), in sizes small, medium or large. Yes, Farinè is a peculiar, ultra-simple place, with a slightly hostile attitude, but none of that matters because the pizza is just so perfect. Why? The dough has a long, 72-hour rise, resulting in a strong, fluffy crust, and the ingredients are hyper-fresh bought daily from nearby markets. This locals-only pizzeria takes minimalism to another level (albeit unintentionally): There’s one table, no forks, and zero staff. Strange and splendido! (Via degli Aurunci, 6/8; +39 06 445 1162)

La Carbonara dal 1906

Hurry. Word is getting out about La Carbonara in Monti. With generous portions of traditional homemade pastas like (my favorite) Ravioli alle Noci, classic dishes like fritto vegatale, and bollito dressed with olive oil and lemon, not to mention all the impassioned Italian graffiti on the walls, the experience here is never dull. Especially if you order the spicy pasta zi Tere made with fresh tomato, chile, basil, and pecorino. For 32 years, the owner, chef and lady of the house, Donna Teresa, has run a tight ship—insisting that the food is consistently magnifico, and that her son, the manager, doesn’t misbehave (too much). (Via Panisperna 214; +39 06 482 5176)

Capo Boi

Just because you’re eating like a local, that doesn’t mean it can’t be elegant. Capo Boiis a fish-centric, Sardinian-kitchen restaurant where dignified Romans go for special occasions. The precious neighborhood itself, Coppide, in between Parioli and Trieste, might as well be one of the secret ingredients on the restaurant’s no-miss menu, with its glamorous, high-status streets reminiscent of 1920’s Rome. The crudo fish appetizers, like the raw and smoked mussels and clams, are the best in town, as are the oysters, but save room for the entrees which are massive and sublime (I dream about the mixed grilled fish), but first comes the addictive Pane Carassua bread, otherwise known as “Italian music sheets” (this, because they’re so crispy and noisy, and there’s no stopping once you start). While dinner won’t come cheap, the white-linen experience is first class all the way. (Via Arno, 80; +39 06 841 5535)

Contributed by Alyssa Schalasky, cntraveler.com

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Where To Eat When Rome Shuts Down

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Contributed by Amanda Ruggeri

For years, Rome has shut down in August. During Italy’s traditional summer holiday of ferragosto, it is normally near impossible to find an open restaurant or shop.

But thanks to the economic crisis, the number of Romans leaving for ferragosto has diminished, with Italian newspaper Il Messaggero reporting that only one in three Romans will leave for a week or more this year, down 10% from last summer.

That might be bad news for Italians, but it’s good news for Rome-bound tourists, especially for those coming for the food. Visitors will still need to plan and book their meals in advance — especially for the two weeks in the middle of August ― but an incredible amount of restaurants will remain open this year, including some top-quality, authentic spots.

Trattorias were usually the first restaurants to shut in summer – after all, if the menu stayed faithful to Roman tradition, the calendar probably did too. Luckily, Flavio al Velavevodetto will open for both lunch and dinner every day in August, including the national holiday of 15 August. The restaurant’s classic Roman dishes – such as bucatini all’amatriciana(pasta with tomato and pork cheek) and coda alla vaccinara (stew made with oxtail) – are favourites of Slow Food founder Carlo Petrini. The restaurant’s location makes it an even better summer choice: built into Monte Testaccio (a hill created by the ancient Romans, who dumped their used amphorae here), its upstairs terrace gets a cool breeze on hot days. On the ground floor, a glass wall shows off the broken pottery.

More upscale than a trattoria but still cosy, Roman institution Rosciolidishes out both Roman classics and Italian cuisine with a twist. Try thecacio e pepe (traditional Roman pasta with Pecorino Romana and black pepper) and linguina alla siciliana (pasta with wild fennel, red prawn and cumin). Roscioli will be open daily through August, except for Sundays and on 15 August.

In the mood for fish? Osteria La Gensola, one of Rome’s tastiest seafood restaurants, is open every day this month, except for 15 August. Head to this top-notch Trastevere spot for super-fresh fish dishes such as spaghetti with sea urchin or grilled calamari.

Some of the city’s top spots for contemporary cuisine are open through August too ― including Rome’s newest Michelin-starred restaurants. Two-year-old Pipero al Rex offers specialties such as goose carpaccio with apple and mustard, while Metamorfosi features twists on the classics, such as gnocchi with cuttlefish and peas. Both restaurants are serving dinner Monday through Saturday.

Need an upmarket spot for Sunday? At Michelin-starred Glass Hostaria, Cordon Bleu-trained chef Cristina Bowerman whips up a creative menu that changes frequently. Past dishes have included items such as tagliolini with oysters, leeks and vanilla. In August, Glass is open Tuesday through Sunday.

Ristorante Antico Arco, meanwhile, is open seven days a week during ferragosto. Located just out of Rome’s centre on the beautiful Janiculum hill, its menu includes specialties such as raw yellowtail with lime, ginger and fennel, or carbonara with black truffle. Open from noon to midnight, this is also a good option for a late lunch, as many of Rome’s restaurants close between 2:30 pm and 7:30 pm.

The new Splendor Parthenopes is also open every day, from 7 am until 2 am. It is a great option for families, since the menu has something for everyone, including pastries, cheeses, meat, fish, pasta and pizza.

Finally, the area near the Vatican museums and St Peter’s Basilica is a tough one for food, even at the best of times. Luckily, one local favourite is remaining open through August. Pizzarium (Via della Meloria 43; 063-974-5416) offers some of Rome’s tastiest pizza al taglio (pizza by the slice). There’s no table service – and it’s pricy – but the slices, sold by weight, are made with the day’s freshest ingredients. Chef Gabriele Bonci uses 200-year-old starters for his sourdough, making for a deliciously fluffy crust.