Showing posts with label Travel to Italy. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Travel to Italy. Show all posts

Thursday, June 5, 2014

Travelore Tips: 5 Things To Do In Bologna, Italy

Bologna, the capital of the Emilia Romagna region of Italy is a leading university city and one of the country’s most beautiful – together with ancient buildings the city is driven by a modern energy and dynamic cultural life.
Apart from the top five attractions recommended below be sure to try the famous Bologna cuisine.
5 Things To Do In Bologna, Italy

1. Sip coffee in the Piazza Maggiore

With a stop at this central square you can see a number of attractions all in one go – the ancient square is surrounded on all sides by historic medieval buildings and features the beautiful Fontana di nettuno (Neptune’s Fountain).
In the square are the City Hall Building (Palazzo Communale); Basilica of San Petronio which is one of the world’s largest churches, holds the relics of the city’s patron saint and Charles V was coronated here in 1530 also Napoleon’s sister Elisa Bonaparte is buried here; Portico of Banchi and the 1200 Palazzo del Podesta (Palace of the Podesta) where shops line the double open arcade on the ground level.
Relax in one of the outdoor cafes and enjoy doing some people watching while you sip your coffee.

2. Climb to the top of one of the Twin Towers

The two towers of Bologna are an iconic landmark in the Piazza di Ravegnana dating back to the 12th century when there were many more towers in the city.
The two towers were used for military and civil purposes.

The Asinelli family funded the construction of the tower where there is a 498 step staircase which can be climbed to get breathtaking views over the city and its red roofs. The staircase is made of wood and takes you 97, 20 meters above ground level.
A the base of the towers you can see the remains of barracks built in 1448, today there are workshops in these strongholds.

3. Basilica of San Domenico

Apart from the stunning architecture this church is home to some exquisite art work. Here you can see work by Giuseppe Pedretti, Vittorio Bigari, Ludovico Carracci and many more artists. But the church is best known as the place where Mozart played the organ while studying with Giovanni Battista Martini (1769).
In the pebble paved square in front of the church parishioners used to stand and listen to the sermons given by the priest from the pulpit at the churches corner. Note the beautiful brick column in the square which holds a bronze statue of St. Dominic.

4. Pinacoteca Nazionale di Bologna (National Art Gallery)

This is one of Italy’s leading museums and is home to an impressive collection of regional art spanning the history of art from the 14th to 21st century.  There are thirty rooms displaying the permanent collection which includes work by Reni, Carracci and Raffaello and regular temporary exhibitions as well.
The museum focuses on artists with some association with the city and they strive to preserve the region and city’s artistic history.

5. Basilica di Santo Stefano

This used to be a medieval complex of seven churches, today only four churches remain. The relics of San Petronio are kept in Chiesa del Crocefisso and Chiesa del Santo Sepolcro is an octagonal church.
In the next courtyard Cortile di Pilato takes its name from the basin where Pontius Pilate washed his hands after sentencing Christ.  Chiesa della Trinita is next to a small museum and Santi Vitale e Agricola is the oldest church in the city.

Contributed by 
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Wednesday, May 7, 2014

Travelore Tips: Free Things to Do in Florence

Picture of a bicyclist in Florence, Italy
Visitors and Florence locals walk past the city's Duomo, the Basilica di Santa Maria del Fiore, which is crowned by the famous Brunelleschi Cupola.
Photograph by Dave Yoder, National Geographic
The birthplace of the Italian Renaissance, Florence boasts a wealth of museum masterpieces, most famously Michelangelo’s "David" and Botticelli’s "The Birth of Venus," but there’s plenty of culture to experience that doesn’t involve pricey admission or epic waits.
Attractions
Towering over the cityscape, the Duomo—officially, Santa Maria del Fiore (known as the Virgin of the Flower, an allusion to the lily, the symbol of Florence)—as it appears today took centuries to complete. The first stone was laid in 1296, and the new façade by Emilio De Fabris was completed in 1884. Today it's one of the largest churches in the world. Admission is free (open from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Monday through Friday; 10 a.m. to 4:45 p.m. on Saturday; and 1:30 to 4:45 p.m. on Sundays and religious holidays). Mass is held on Sundays at 7:30 a.m., 9:00 a.m., 10:30 a.m., noon, and 6:00 p.m. Lines can be long, but they move quickly. A more intimate look at the dome—an architectural feat built without scaffolding—requires climbing 463 steps and will set you back 10 euros (U.S. $14), a price that includes access to the bell tower, the baptistery, and the crypt within the Duomo complex. You also get to bask in Giorgio Vasari's "Last Judgment" frescoes and get a bird’s-eye peek at Florence.
Until the 19th century, all Catholic Florentines were baptized at the Baptistery of St. John. The octagonal monument is distinguished by its geometric, colored-marble exterior and detailed interior mosaics. Admission is 5 euros (U.S. $7) but admiring its famous bronze doors (with replica panels), carved with scenes from the Bible, is free.
Follow the main street from Piazzale Michelangelo to the steps of the Abbey San Miniato al Monte, which is one of the highest points in Florence. Michelozzo’s Cappella del Crocifisso (1448) is the centerpiece of the Romanesque basilica. Frescoes by Taddeo Gaddi decorate the crypt behind it. Wander the abbey’s cemetery (Carlo Collodi, author of Pinocchio, is buried here) and stay for sunset, when the golden light reflects off the terra-cotta roofs of the city below. Admission is free (open from 7 a.m. to 1:00 p.m.; 3:30 to 7 p.m. on weekdays in winter; and 7 a.m. to sunset in summer). Masses are throughout the day on Sunday and holidays; 10 a.m. and 5:30 p.m. masses are in Gregorian chant.
Culture
It’s hard to put a price on a Botticelli, but at about U.S. $30 a pop, tickets to theUffizi Gallery can hit your wallet hard, especially if you’ve got kids in tow. Fortunately, a new national policy now allows all minors under 18 (with valid ID) free admission to state museums, including the Uffizi, Accademia Gallery(hello, "David"!), the Pitti Palace (arguably the best value at about U.S. $9 for full admission; don’t miss the Boboli Gardens), the Bargello National Museum, and the Museum of the Medici Chapels. Previously restricted to E.U. minors under six, the freebies can soften the blow for families. Prebook reservations online to avoid lines.
Florence is full of public art. Whether the real "David" is in the cards or not, you can’t miss the Piazza della Signoria—the city’s historic hub—where a replica of Michelangelo’s marble masterpiece presides over the main entrance to the Palazzo Vecchio. Keeping the outdoor "David" company is Cellini’s sculpture of Perseus holding the head of Medusa and Bartolomeo Ammannati’s "Fountain of Neptune," among others.
This may be Renaissance central, but the contemporary art scene is thriving.Biagiotti Art Project is a nonprofit space that promotes young, emerging artists who work in everything from painting to installations (Via delle Belle Donne 39r).Galleria Alessandro Bagnai represents more established artists like Florence native Sandro Chia (Palazzo Ricasoli, Piazza Goldoni 2).
Families
Like Paris and London, Florence now has its own urban beach. In nice weather, the wide swath of sand on the Arno River, near San Niccolò, teems with bikini-clad locals playing volleyball or lounging barside. A playground, Ping-Pong tables, and umbrellas make it family-friendly.
The antique wooden carousel on the Piazza della Repubblica isn’t free, but it's darn close. Two bucks will buy your tot a ride on one of the 20 horses or two gilded king’s carriages—and priceless snapshots. Open November through May from 10 a.m. to 8 p.m.
A former game reserve and farm that belonged to a member of the Medici family,Cascine Park is the largest park in Florence, with acres of sprawling grounds along the Arno. There are playgrounds for kids, a small zoo, and a public swimming pool open in the summer.
Food and Drink
Florentines take their happy hour snacks seriously. Forget beer nuts: Here, wine bars lay out generous aperitivi (also called apericena locally)—from cured meats and grilled vegetables to cold pasta and risotto dishes—to nibble as you sip your vino. It’s feasible to make a small meal of these spreads for the cost of a glass of wine or negroni and sometimes a small surcharge. The romanticFuori Porta in San Niccolò is a cozy enoteca specializing in local wines. Kitsch in Piazza Beccaria is famous for its expansive buffet. In the summer, some hotels welcome nonguests to their rooftop terraces. Try the Grand Hotel Minervafor a lovely view of the city.
Outdoors
The best free activity in Florence may well be people-watching. Once you peruse the jewelry and souvenir shops along the Ponte Vecchio (the medieval stone bridge over the Arno River), get off the beaten path and head to Oltrarno, a neighborhood on the left—and less touristy—side of the Arno. Get lost in the warren of narrow cobblestone streets, wandering in and out of artisan workshops. Rub shoulders with local arty types at the daily morning market (closed the second and third Sundays of the month, when artisan and antique markets are held) in the Piazza Santo Spirito.
Even if you’re not in the market for, say, tripe or pig ears, the imposing central market in Piazza del Mercato Centrale (Monday-Saturday, 7 a.m. to 2 p.m.)—obscured by the San Lorenzo flea market that surrounds it—is a cultural experience. Outside of the main building is a large tent with fruit and vegetable stands but inside is the real show, with butchers showing off their wares, from rabbits and wild boar to cured meats and local cheeses. Here’s where you can provision a picnic or pick up a reasonably priced bottle of local olive oil to bring home.

Tuesday, April 22, 2014

Travelore Tips: 7 Things To Know Before You Go to Milan

Get beyond the Duomo cathedral and you'll discover Milan offers an experience of Italy that sometimes feels very un-Italian.

You could be forgiven for thinking that Italy's second city is all about fashion and finance.
But go beyond the banks and boutiques and Milan offers a world of subterranean secrets, surreal meals and -- when its party scene gets too much -- silence.
Above all, Milan offers an experience of Italy that sometimes feels very un-Italian.
Here are a few things to know before you go.
1. All roads lead away from Rome
Rome might be Italy's eternal city, but it has an intense rivalry with Milan.
While Rome is the seat of political power, Milan has the banks, the stock exchange and, of course, Italy's power houses of style.
Romans have been known to say the best thing about Milan is the train back to Rome.
But that doesn't stop them having the time of their lives partying here.
2. Restaurants often close early
Milan is a northern city -- it doesn't move to the Mediterranean beat of other parts of Italy.
Restaurants away from the boutiques and clubs can stick to rigid opening hours and may be unwilling to serve you lunch after 1.30 p.m., or dinner after 8.30 p.m.
The Milanese are known to be extremely punctual, so if you reserve a table, it's best to get there on the dot.
3. Less espresso, more long coffee
If you're bored with chain store coffee, Milan will be heaven
But don't expect to the strong, bitter, pungent taste of Italian espresso.
Milanese tend to drink their coffee quite long, with added water.
This is no doubt to help them linger over the amazing array of pastries and cakes the city has to offer.
Panettone, Italy's traditional Christmas desert loaf, was invented in Milan
Sant'Ambroeus (Corso Matteotti; +39 2 76 00 05 40) is one of the oldest pastry shops in town.
4. Happy hour is aperitivo hour
Romans like to joke that the best thing about Milan is the train back home to Rome.
Romans like to joke that the best thing about Milan is the train back home to Rome.
Milan rules when it comes to laid back lounges, wild cocktails and gourmet bar snacks.
The city is known for its love of the "spritz" -- a blend of prosecco, soda and a fruity Italian aperitif by the name of Aperol.
Basso Bar (Via Plinio 39; +39 2 29 40 05 80) is the birthplace of Negroni Sbagliato -- a happy accident created when a busy barman mixed a Negroni cocktail with spumante instead of gin.
At the Armani Bamboo Bar (Via Manzoni 31; +39 2 88 83 87 03) traditional Italian dishes have been turned into cocktails.
The Caprese Mary mixes vodka, tomato juice, basil and mozzarella, while the distinctly fishy Cacciucco Experience features swordfish broth and anchovy cream.
At Pavé (Via Felice Casati 27; +39 2 94 39 22 59), the rhubarb cocktails are served alongside fancy finger food.
5. Eating can get experimental
Milan isn't scared of tinkering with the tried and trusted Italian dining experience.
Bianca's (Via Panizza 10; +39 2 45 40 90 37) offers a Tarte Tatin of caramelized apples, foie gras dipped in Marsala wine and chocolate crumble.
Its Puntarelle salad dressing is made of vinegar and house-made raspberry sauce.
Milan\'s Quardrilatero del Silenzio features architectural oddities.
Milan's Quardrilatero del Silenzio features architectural oddities.
At Cinc's (Via Formentini 5; +39 2 36 55 02 57) there's a rice pie with a topping made of cinnamon melted in warm cream and mixed with Parmesan.
The Risotto Acquerello at Don Carlos (Via Manzoni 29; +39 2 72 31 46 40) is cooked in Gorgonzola cheese, pears and licorice.
6. It's not just about the F-words
Yes there's the fashion and finance.
But Milan is also a city with a rich Roman and Spanish heritage -- even if some if it lies buried from view.
Deep beneath Milan's Duomo cathedral lies a maze of underground galleries, some dating to the 4th century.
Visitors can join guided tours inside this subterranean world (Viale Romagna 46; +39 2 36 56 56 94).
As well as lending its name to a formidable looking orthopedic braceback in the 15th century, Sforza Castle (Piazza Castello 1; +39 2 88 46 37 00) stands as a potent symbol of Milanese grandeur.
Piazza Vetra, where witches were burned to death, offers a spookier side to the city.
And there's always "The Last Supper."
The Leonardo Da Vinci masterpiece that, for better or for worse, inspired Dan Brown can be seen at Cenacolo Vinciano (Piazza Santa Maria delle Grazie 2).
7. Navigli rules the night
Navigli is the city's most stylish district, the pulsing heart of Milan's party scene, where the young, hip and effortlessly cool hang out at bars and restaurants lining a network of canals.
Among the best places to eat is Eppol (Via di Porta Ticinese 65; +39 2 36 79 82 90), home of the odd-sounding ham and whiskey club sandwich.
Once you're partied out, you can hit the dreamy quiet of Milan's Quadrilatero del Silenzio.
Art historians at Milano Guida offer tours of this "silent" neighborhood's mosaics, weird statues, secret gardens swarming with flamingos, and quirky architecture that includes a huge, ear-shaped door bell.
Contributed by Silvia Marchetti, CNN

Monday, February 3, 2014

Travelore Tips: Recommended World-Wide Events In February 2014

There are some amazing events on tap all over the world, all the time. Here’s a taste of what you can see and do in February:
  • Carnival season is upon us, so why not take part in an event that inspired many other pre-Lenten celebrations around the world? Head to the ”City of Masks” for the Venetian Carnevale (February 15-March 4) to join in the flamboyant revelry, including live music, jousts, theatrical performances, and the highly anticipated masked ball, the Gran Ballo delle Maschere. 
  • Celebrate Africa’s musical diversity at the 10th-ever Festival sur le Niger (February 5-9) in Ségou, Mali. The annual cultural extravaganza, which was downsized due to political strife in 2013, makes a triumphant return this year with an impressive line up of performers and art exhibits–and a strong message of peace. 
  • Each year millions converge on Sapporo for one of the largest winter events in Japan, the Sapporo Snow Festival (February 5-11). For seven days, the city is transformed into a veritable wonderland, complete with ice slides, a snow maze, and hundreds of sculptures crafted from ice and snow.
    Members of the U.S. 7th Fleet Band perform during the Sapporo Snow Festival in 2008  (Photograph by U.S. Navy Mass Communication Specialist 2nd Class Ben Farone, Wikimedia Commons)
    Members of the U.S. 7th Fleet Band perform during the Sapporo Snow Festival in 2008 (Photograph by U.S. Navy Mass Communication Specialist 2nd Class Ben Farone, Wikimedia Commons)
  • Get a taste of “Sea Island Creole” and honor a distinctive cultural heritage in the American South at the Gullah Celebration (January 31-February 23) in Hilton Head, South Carolina. The fete features a traditional Gullah concert, an art exhibit and sale, and a craft and food expo.
  • With hundreds of events spread over nine days, the Kala Ghoda Arts Festival (February 1-9) in Mumbai is an experience you don’t want to miss. Every year, thousands of revelers take in a vibrant olio of art, music, food, and film at an incredible cost: free.
  • Want to bulk up this winter? Add some padding to your belly during Maslenitsa (February 24-March 2) in Moscow. In addition to serving up a heaping helping of blini–warm, golden pancakes–in the lead-up to Lent, sledding, snow sculptures, snowball fights, and sleigh rides round out this mouthwatering event.
  • Hoping to add some color and style to your home, but don’t want to break the bank? Head to Brussels for the Affordable Art Fair (February 7-10), which hosts a wealth of original paintings, prints, sculptures, and photography guaranteed to suit any budget.
    Contemporary art for everyone: The Affordable Art Fair (Photograph by centralasian, Flickr)
    Contemporary art for everyone: The Affordable Art Fair (Photograph by centralasian, Flickr)
  • Support homegrown arts and entertainment at the annual New Zealand Fringe Festival(February 7-March 2) in Wellington. This grassroots event serves as a launch pad for new talent by accepting anyone who has the audacity to perform in front of an audience. Take the plunge yourself, if you dare, or simply discover the next big thing.
  • Shake off those cold-weather blues at the 36th annual Winterlude (January 31-February 17) in Ottawa and Gatineau, Canada. From hockey tournaments to ice sculptures, local cuisine to the world’s largest skating rink, this fun-filled (and family-friendly) event will turn that frown upside down.
  • In search of some warmer weather? Head to Puno, Peru–the “Folk Capital of the Americas”–to honor the city’s patron saint at the dynamic Fiesta de la Virgen de la Candelaria (February 1-14). The colorful event–a blending of indigenous and Catholic cultures–features an extravagant procession and days filled with music and dance on the shores of Lake Titicaca.
Contributed by Intelligent Travel

Thursday, January 30, 2014

Travelore Tips: 5 Recommended Free Things To Do In Milan



Contributed by Colleen Barry, AP.


This Jan. 16, 2014 photo shows visitors dodging birds in the piazza outside of Duomo cathedral in Milan, Italy. The ornate white facade of Milan's Duomo cathedral is the single most recognized symbol of the Lombard capital, taking centuries to complete. (AP Photo/Antonio Calanni)
 Milan is Italy's finance and fashion capital, with hundreds of billions of euros invested on the Italian Stock Exchange and tens of billions more spent yearly in the city's luxury boutiques. While Florence attracts art-lovers, Venice the romantic and Rome the faithful, most travelers to Milan come to broker deals and indulge in the latest Italian fashion trends. Nonetheless, there is plenty to see for those whose pockets are not so deep - be it by style choice, or not.

WINDOW SHOPPING
Think Milan, think fashion. It's invitation-only to the four annual Milan Fashion Week runway previews, where designers offer their vision on next season's looks - often adding audacious embellishments not really intended for the showroom.

A peek through the windows of the city's numerous brand-name stores and boutiques gives a more street-ready view of the collections. Milan's most famous shopping street is via Montenapoleone, a one-half kilometer (third of a mile) display of pure luxury apparel, jewelry, shoes, bags - and even knives and Venetian glass. While Prada may command €11,500 ($15,700) for a blue fur coat and €220 ($300) for knit garters resembling 1980s tube socks to complete the look, it doesn't cost anything to dream.

The globe's major luxury brands are all clustered within close proximity on the streets that surround Montenapoleone and the nearby Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, a shopping mall that dates to the 19th century, where a McDonald's recently lost its lease to Prada menswear. While window-shopping, don't forget to people-watch. Milan's instinctively snappy dressers inspired the ready-to-wear collections that took flight in the late 1970s and 1980s, and Milanesi remain among the most fashionable of the fashion-aware Italians.

DUOMO
The ornate white facade of Milan's Duomo cathedral is the city's single most-recognized symbol. The Gothic-inspired Duomo took nearly six centuries to complete, incorporating a cornucopia of styles by its completion in 1965, and is among the largest cathedrals in Europe. The Duomo is also the seat of the archbishop of Milan, Italy's largest and most influential diocese that gave the world two popes during the 20th century.

Take in the imposing facade with its Gothic spires from the piazza outside, dodging tourists, shoppers and pigeons alike, and snap a photo of the exterior. The Duomo is undergoing extensive renovations, and to raise funds, officials have inaugurated an adopt-a-spire program that includes a 2-euro fee to take pictures inside of the vaulted ceiling, naves and pillars. There's also a fee to access the spectacular view of fairytale-inspiring pinnacles and spires from the Duomo's roof. But restaurant and bar terraces offer a free peek from surrounding grand buildings - called palazzo - including the Rinascente department store.

HANGARBICOCCA
Visitors to Italy feast on Renaissance and Baroque treasures, but there are increasing efforts to promote contemporary art - including the HangarBicocca, founded and funded by the Pirelli tire company. The capacious former industrial complex in Milan's Bicocca district on the city's northern edge has been transformed into the largest private contemporary art space in Europe. German artist Anselm Kiefer made a site-specific installation, "The Seven Heavenly Palaces," for the 2004 inauguration. The imposing corrugated towers rise from sandy islands, taking inspiration from the palaces described in an ancient Hebrew treatise while representing the ruins of Europe after World War II. Rotating exhibits inhabit the adjoining space. The HangarBicocca also is meant to be a cultural center, offering activities for children and adults.

PIAZZA GAE AUELENTI
A visitor emerging from the Garibaldi train station may, in a moment of disorientation provoked by the glare of glass and steel, confuse the towering skyline ahead with the heart of post-unification Berlin. The new skyscrapers at Piazza Gae Aulenti, named for the late architect and designer, have little bearing on Milan's neoclassical architecture. It's no surprise that many visitors draw quick comparisons with Berlin's Potsdamer Platz, which similarly aggregates living, office and commercial space. The ever-conservative Milanesi were wary when construction began but now seem to have embraced the new district. Families flock to the raised, pedestrian piazza on weekends, a safe place for kids to dash about. A coffee shop and bookstore with free Wi-Fi is crowded even on rainy weekday mornings. The Unicredit Tower, the shiny new headquarters of Italy's largest bank, has claimed the title of Milan's tallest building at 218 meters (715 feet), topped by a single twirling steel spire that echoes the spires of the now-dwarfed Duomo in the distance.

NAVIGLI
Landlocked Milan had to dig a navigable system of canals to ease commerce and construction throughout the centuries. Today the canals are the center of Milan's nightlife - lined with restaurants and cafes - but there is plenty to see by day. An antiques market featuring more than 350 sellers unpacks on the banks of the Naviglio Grande every last Sunday of the month except in July. The Vicolo privato del Lavandai - literally the launderers alley - is where, until the 1950s, women would come and wash clothes using wooden washboards on the banks of the Naviglio Grande. And the Ponte di Pietra, or stone bridge, was originally made out of wood, rebuilt in cast iron by the Austrians in the 1900s and eventually cast in concrete, the current version. Once, wealthy residents collected tithings for a crossing. Today it is free.

Thursday, August 15, 2013

Where To Eat When Rome Shuts Down

For years, Rome has shut down in August. During Italy’s traditional summer holiday of ferragosto, it is normally near impossible to find an open restaurant or shop.
But thanks to the economic crisis, the number of Romans leaving for ferragosto has diminished, with Italian newspaper Il Messaggero reporting that only one in three Romans will leave for a week or more this year, down 10% from last summer.
That might be bad news for Italians, but it’s good news for Rome-bound tourists, especially for those coming for the food. Visitors will still need to plan and book their meals in advance — especially for the two weeks in the middle of August ― but an incredible amount of restaurants will remain open this year, including some top-quality, authentic spots.
Trattorias were usually the first restaurants to shut in summer – after all, if the menu stayed faithful to Roman tradition, the calendar probably did too. Luckily, Flavio al Velavevodetto will open for both lunch and dinner every day in August, including the national holiday of 15 August. The restaurant’s classic Roman dishes – such as bucatini all’amatriciana(pasta with tomato and pork cheek) and coda alla vaccinara (stew made with oxtail) – are favourites of Slow Food founder Carlo Petrini. The restaurant’s location makes it an even better summer choice: built into Monte Testaccio (a hill created by the ancient Romans, who dumped their used amphorae here), its upstairs terrace gets a cool breeze on hot days. On the ground floor, a glass wall shows off the broken pottery.
More upscale than a trattoria but still cosy, Roman institution Rosciolidishes out both Roman classics and Italian cuisine with a twist. Try thecacio e pepe (traditional Roman pasta with Pecorino Romana and black pepper) and linguina alla siciliana (pasta with wild fennel, red prawn and cumin). Roscioli will be open daily through August, except for Sundays and on 15 August.
In the mood for fish? Osteria La Gensola, one of Rome’s tastiest seafood restaurants, is open every day this month, except for 15 August. Head to this top-notch Trastevere spot for super-fresh fish dishes such as spaghetti with sea urchin or grilled calamari.
Some of the city’s top spots for contemporary cuisine are open through August too ― including Rome’s newest Michelin-starred restaurants. Two-year-old Pipero al Rex offers specialties such as goose carpaccio with apple and mustard, while Metamorfosi features twists on the classics, such as gnocchi with cuttlefish and peas. Both restaurants are serving dinner Monday through Saturday.
Need an upmarket spot for Sunday? At Michelin-starred Glass Hostaria, Cordon Bleu-trained chef Cristina Bowerman whips up a creative menu that changes frequently. Past dishes have included items such as tagliolini with oysters, leeks and vanilla. In August, Glass is open Tuesday through Sunday.
Ristorante Antico Arco, meanwhile, is open seven days a week during ferragosto. Located just out of Rome’s centre on the beautiful Janiculum hill, its menu includes specialties such as raw yellowtail with lime, ginger and fennel, or carbonara with black truffle. Open from noon to midnight, this is also a good option for a late lunch, as many of Rome’s restaurants close between 2:30 pm and 7:30 pm.
The new Splendor Parthenopes is also open every day, from 7 am until 2 am. It is a great option for families, since the menu has something for everyone, including pastries, cheeses, meat, fish, pasta and pizza.
Finally, the area near the Vatican museums and St Peter’s Basilica is a tough one for food, even at the best of times. Luckily, one local favourite is remaining open through August. Pizzarium (Via della Meloria 43; 063-974-5416) offers some of Rome’s tastiest pizza al taglio (pizza by the slice). There’s no table service – and it’s pricy – but the slices, sold by weight, are made with the day’s freshest ingredients. Chef Gabriele Bonci uses 200-year-old starters for his sourdough, making for a deliciously fluffy crust.

Wednesday, June 19, 2013

Undiscovered Italy: Lake Garda

You've heard of Lake Como, home to over-the-top palazzos, super-sleek yachts, and George Clooney's exploits. But did you know that about halfway between Milan and Venice you'll find the largest lake in Italy, beloved by Italians and other Europeans (particularly Germans and Swiss), but virtually unknown in North America? Lake Garda's varied landscape of beaches, mountains, ancient towns, natural hot springs, and, for history buffs, Mussolini lore (more on that later) make it an ideal getaway from early spring till late fall—though be sure to book ahead in the high summer season, when in-the-know Europeans crowd the lake's resorts in search of outdoorsy R&R. So take a few days to explore... You can thank us later.

Riva del Garda

riva-del-garda.jpg
At the lake's northernmost tip, encircled by mountains, you'll find the striking mini-resort town of Riva del Garda. Though best known for its prime windsurfing, you can certainly enjoy less active pursuits like shopping the town's many boutiques or taking a stroll on the quiet path alongside the lake. Just a 15-minute drive north of Riva, spend an hour hiking up to the ruins of 12th-century Castello di Arco—worth it just to gaze down at the lovely scenery in the valley below.
Where to StayLido Palace is the chicest option in town, with fully modernized rooms inside a 19th-century palace, plus a high-end spa.
Where to EatIl Re Della Busa, inside Lido Palace, offers magnificent lakeside views, an extensive wine list including interesting local choices, and well-presented dishes, like char fish direct from the lake.

Sirmione

sirmione.jpg
The most touristy of Lake Garda's towns—for a reason. In this charming town on the lake's southern shore, you'll find quaint cobblestoned streets lined with gelato shops and pizzerias; the best-preserved Roman private residence in Northern Italy, Grotte di Catullo; and an outdoor natural hot springs. Though you can see everything in one day, you will likely be seduced by Sirmione's charms and decide to spend the night.
Where to StayVilla Cortine Palace Hotel, surrounded by a lush secluded park but only a short walk into town, features 54 elegant rooms in a converted 19th-century villa.
Where to Eat: For innovative takes on classic Italian dishes, dine at La Rucola, where you can choose from tasting menus of fish or meat (or both), paired with wines if you choose.

Malcesine

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A cute enclave of cobbled streets, pizzerias, and cafes on Lake Garda's eastern shores, Malcesine makes a lovely stop for a tasty lunch and a post-meal stroll. Don't miss the well-preserved castle where Goethe was briefly imprisoned; it's now home to a charming natural history museum and features stunning views. For more active pursuits, take a cable car up Monte Baldo to reach the panoramic hiking trails.
Where to Stay: For a change from the hotels within villas (though, frankly, they're difficult to tire of!), try the ultra-modern Ambient Hotel Prima Luna, opposite a small beach.
Where to Eat: One Michelin-starred Vecchia Malcesine, offers delicious tasting menus, sure to feature freshly caught lake fish paired with fabulous water views.

Gardone Riviera

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Gabriele d'Annunzio was an early 20th-century poet and soldier whose ideas helped influence Italian fascism. Stroll through the grounds of his quirky palace, Il Vittoriale, complete with mausoleum and battleship in the garden. Italian history buffs will find more to explore in Salo, just south of Gardone, where Mussolini had his headquarters from 1943 to 1945; today it's a delightful little town of crumbling villas.
Where to Stay: Fancy sleeping in a historic palace? Mussolini and his family lived for two years at Villa Feltrinelli, a magnificent 21-room villa converted into a hotel in 2001, 10 miles north of Gardone near the village of Gargnano. For something closer to town, the Grand Hotel Gardone Riviera was the first hotel to open on the lake, in 1884, and since then has hosted such luminaries as Winston Churchill and Vladimir Nabokov. Today you can relax by the outdoor pool or stroll along the lovely lakeside promenade.
Where to EatVilla Fiordaliso, an elegant lakeside Relais & Chateaux property (which boasted both d'Annunzio and Mussolini's mistresses as short-term residents), houses a lovely one Michelin-starred eatery where it's easy to while away an afternoon.
Contributed by Liz Humphreys. She is a food, travel, wine, and lifestyle writer and editor formerly based in New York City and currently residing in Amsterdam. She's a former editor of Luckymag.com, iVillage, and WebMD, NYC Guide writer for USAToday.com, and eater in chief of the blog winederlust.com. Follow her on Twitter at @winederlust.