Philadelphia Is Emerging As One Of America's Most Creative Cities

The city's history now has a big chapter on the creative arts, as its growing renaissance finds ever-inventive ways of expressing itself 

Although Philadelphia once had a reputation for insularity, unhealthy food (hello, cheesesteak) and badly behaved sports fans, the city is busy reinventing itself. The restaurant scene is becoming one of the nation's best, and once-derelict neighbourhoods are rapidly gentrifying. But it's the evolving arts scene that is playing the biggest part in transforming Philadelphia into a serious destination, no longer bypassed in favour of New York just two hours' drive away. 

The Philadelphia Museum of Art and the Barnes Foundation are world-class museums, hosting bigger and better exhibitions every year. And in recent times the northern neighbourhoods, home to vast, unused industrial spaces, have attracted artists from all over the USA, enticed by the low rents. Warehouses and abandoned factories in Fishtown and Kensington contain scores of studios and workshops; cooperative spaces for artists working in clay, wood or 3D printing now have waiting lists. On the first Friday of every month, galleries host events that combine visual arts, live music and cases of Pabst Blue Ribbon beer. It's an enticing combination of upstarts and established institutions that's fuelling the most exciting arts scene in the USA.

Philadelphia Museum of Art 

Referred to colloquially simply as 'the art museum', the PMA sits at the top of the Benjamin Franklin Parkway, lording it over the city. It's one of the country's largest art repositories and the permanent collection (arms and armour, costumes and textiles, Old Masters, seminal works of modern art) attracts visitors from around the world. Architect Frank Gehry has just unveiled plans to extend the museum with new, underground galleries. On Friday evenings, it stays open until 8.45pm for Art After 5, with live music, food, drinks and guided gallery tours. 

WHAT'S ON

An exhibition of works on paper by Richard Pousette-Dart opens 13 September; a major retrospective of American photographer Paul Strand opens 21 October. 2600 Benjamin Franklin Parkway (+1 215 763 8100; www.philamuseum.org). Closed Monday. Entrance about £12

The Barnes Foundation

The Barnes Foundation opened on the Benjamin Franklin Parkway in 2012, after a long and passionately fought legal battle over its move from the Philadelphia suburbs. Once a private collection, the stunning array of works by Cézanne, Picasso and Renoir (more than 160 by the latter alone) makes this a must-visit for devotees of Impressionist and early modernist art - though the gallery has also shown works by major contemporary artists such as Ellsworth Kelly. 

WHAT'S ON

A comprehensive exhibition of the paintings of William Glackens, American realist painter, opens 8 November. Glackens was highly influential in creating the Barns Collection, making this a 'must-see' exhibit for art lovers.  2025 Benjamin Franklin Parkway (+1 215 278 7000; www.barnesfoundation.org). Closed Monday. Entrance about £13

Artwork by Claire Ashley; Photo by Luca Trovato

Pennsylvania Academy of the Fine Arts

PAFA is one of the oldest museums and art schools in the USA, and its collection of American art is unparalleled. A clear lineage runs from 19th-century pieces by Thomas Eakins and Winslow Homer to more recent work by Nancy Graves and Frank Stella. Smaller and quieter than both the PMA and the Barnes, this Frank Furness-designed museum is restful yet stimulating.  

WHAT'S ON

Opening 13 September is a show of visual art by director David Lynch (once a PAFA student), followed on 3 October by an exhibition of post-Fukushima-disaster photography by Eiko Otake and William Johnston. 118 North Broad Street (+1 215 972 7600; www.pafa.org). Closed Monday. Entrance about £9

Crane Arts

A large-scale renovation in 2005 turned this former plumbing warehouse and seafood processing plant in South Kensington into a home for a number of arts-related businesses. Many original fixtures, such as the working elevators, are still there. The Icebox (once used to store frozen fish) hosts site-specific installations that are always worth seeing: one artist created a series of colourful inflatables (left) that made the enormous space seem crowded. 1400 North American Street (+1 215 232 3203;www.cranearts.com). Open Wednesday-Saturday, noon-6pm. Free

Rebekah Templeton Contemporary Art

When founders Sarah Eberle and Ben Will opened this spot in 2007 it was one of the first galleries in the rough and ready Kensington neighbourhood, and it's still one of the best. It usually hosts solo shows and has a history of supporting contemporary artists working in new media and installation. Bold or subtle, the work here is never boring. 173 West Girard Ave (+1 267 519 3884; www.rebekahtempleton.com). Open weekends, noon-6pm, or by appointment. Free

Vox Populi

An artist-run space, Vox Populi promotes under-represented Philly-based artists, which, for the visitor, means getting an early look at the kind of work not found in mainstream shows. The film screenings, solo/group shows and exchange programmes with other galleries offer a fresh perspective and a sense of humour.

WHAT'S ON

Go for one of the First Friday openings (5 September, 3 October) when the space is open until 10pm. 319 North 11th Street (+1 215 238 1236;www.voxpopuligallery.org). Open Wednesday-Sunday, noon-6pm. Free 

Artwork by Claire Ashley; Photo by Luca Trovato

Performance Garage

Dance fans have plenty to choose from in Philadelphia, but this is a reliable venue for dynamic shows from an international line-up of companies. The studio was formerly a stable, then an automobile garage - a heritage referenced in a recent performance when dancers drove a car into the space. Expect to see anything from ball gowns to hula-hoops on stage. 

WHAT'S ON

In September the Garage is hosting a number of acts during the city's Fringe Festival. 1515 Brandywine Street (+1 215 569 4060;www.performancegarage.org)

Underground Arts

This cavernous warehouse basement has an edgy feel, cut-price drinks and a range of musical shows from the eclectic (venerable surf-rock group Man or Astro-man?) to the conventional (indie-rock darlings Bosnian Rainbows). Gaps in the calendar are filled with comedy, spoken word and open-micnights. Don't expect comfortable seats or subtle lighting - this is where you come to dance, clap, sing along or heckle. 

WHAT'S ON

Upcoming shows include Norwegian singer Sondre Lerche on 25 September, and actor/comedian John Hodgman (often seen on The Daily Show) on 17 October. 1200 Callowhill Street (no phone; www.undergroundarts.org)

World Cafe Live

Since 2004, this west Philadelphia venue has been providing what the founders call 'live music for grown-ups'. This means that in addition to a line-up of well-known bands, this place also has clean bathrooms, comfy seats and clear sightlines. Food is healthy (garlic houmous and quinoa salad) and there's a good selection of wine by the glass; most shows end by 10.30pm. 

WHAT'S ON

In September, Dinosaur Jr founder J Mascis, indie-pop-rock duo Pomplamoose and Brazilian band Sambadá. 3025 Walnut Street (+1 215 222 1400; www.philly.worldcafelive.com) 

Painted Bride art center

This performance venue has been luring visitors to its corner of the Old City neighbourhood for four decades, but the programming is fresh and innovative. There's avant-garde photography, group karaoke and percussion orchestra as well as traditional dance and theatre performances. 

WHAT'S ON

Up-and-coming dancers on 3 and 4 October; on 21 October there's an open-mic story-telling competition. 230 Vine Street (+1 215 925 9914;www.paintedbride.org)

This feature first appeared in Condé Nast Traveller USA Special September 2014

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