Art beat … the port town of Hydra became popular with musicians and artists in the 1960s. Photograph: Alamy
These Greek islands south of Athens make a great holiday on their own, or a relaxing extension to a city break. Andrew Bostock picks the best places to eat and stay, and things to do on and off the beach
The Argo-Saronic islands hug the coast between Piraeus, the port of Athens, and the Peloponnese, the stunning southern mainland of Greece. They could easily fill a holiday on their own but, combined with Athens and the mainland, would make for a trip that summed up the very best of Greece.
Having said that, and unless you’re keen to see the site where the Greeks defeated the Persian navy in 480 BC, Salamis is probably not worth the effort. Aegina (an hour by ferry from Athens) is a much better bet. The classical temple of Aphaea is everything you imagine a Greek temple to be and is far less visited than some.
Heading south around the Peloponnese coast, the islands become more upmarket and expensive, and are best out of season. Poros, only a long stone’s throw from the mainland, attracts some package tourism but is beautiful, nonetheless, and a great base for exploring the famous sites on the mainland (the theatre of Epidaurus and Mycenae among them).
Hydra ramps up the stakes, not even allowing cars or bicycles to spoil the island’s tranquillity. If you can afford it, its charms are obvious and have not gone unnoticed by the world’s artists, writers and musicians.
Spetses, a little further on, is an outpost for the remaining rich Greeks and the yacht crowd. Away from them, the interior is almost entirely unpopulated and hiking will allow you to savour the mysterious atmosphere that inspired John Fowles’ The Magus. Lastly, Kythira is strictly part of the Ionian islands, but is most easily reached from the Peloponnese. If you can make it here, you will be rewarded with one of the most authentic and beautiful Greek islands there is.
All prices are for one week’s accommodation for two in August, with breakfast unless otherwise stated. Prices in other months can be considerably cheaper. Greek taverna prices are remarkably similar, and if anything have gone down in the past few years. You can expect to eat well for €15-€20pp. Where a restaurant is cheaper or more expensive it is stated.
Aegina
Where to stay
Aeginitiko Archontiko
This 12-room hotel sits by the castle-like Markellos Tower in Aegina Town. There is a distinct Anatolian feel to it and Rena, the owner, has filled it with antiques and trinkets. Everything has a friendly, old-world feel – down to the authentically creaky beds. It’s a warm hearted place and the local breakfast is a treat.
• £350, +30 22970 24968, aeginitikoarchontiko.gr
Aeginitiko Archontiko
This 12-room hotel sits by the castle-like Markellos Tower in Aegina Town. There is a distinct Anatolian feel to it and Rena, the owner, has filled it with antiques and trinkets. Everything has a friendly, old-world feel – down to the authentically creaky beds. It’s a warm hearted place and the local breakfast is a treat.
• £350, +30 22970 24968, aeginitikoarchontiko.gr
Where to eat
Dromaki
Right on the town beach, just south of the harbour, this taverna has a clean modern take on traditional style. If you sit outside you’re right on the sand. It offers well-executed local dishes and, as always, it’s worth looking out for the daily “oven dishes”.
• Akti Toti Hatzi 4, +30 22970 24445
Dromaki
Right on the town beach, just south of the harbour, this taverna has a clean modern take on traditional style. If you sit outside you’re right on the sand. It offers well-executed local dishes and, as always, it’s worth looking out for the daily “oven dishes”.
• Akti Toti Hatzi 4, +30 22970 24445
What to doThe Temple of Aphaea is on the other side of the island from Aegina Town, not far above the unlovely resort of Agia Marina. Don’t be put off: this is one not to miss. Almost as elegant as the Parthenon itself, the classical ruin has the advantage of relatively few visitors and a lovely setting in an olive grove. The views are pretty great, too.
Agistri
Where to stay
Rosy’s Little Village
The little island of Agistri is just beyond Aegina, only 45 minutes by hydrofoil from Piraeus, but if you know where to go it can be a magical place. Rosy’s is a good example of this, set around a rocky cove studded with swimming platforms. Accommodation is simple but comfortable and welcoming.
• £350, breakfast extra, +30 22970 91610, rosyslittlevillage.com
Rosy’s Little Village
The little island of Agistri is just beyond Aegina, only 45 minutes by hydrofoil from Piraeus, but if you know where to go it can be a magical place. Rosy’s is a good example of this, set around a rocky cove studded with swimming platforms. Accommodation is simple but comfortable and welcoming.
• £350, breakfast extra, +30 22970 91610, rosyslittlevillage.com
Where to eat
Parnassos
Rosy’s does pretty good food, but visitors should also head up to Metochi, the village in the hills just above it. Walk through the windy alleys and your nose should lead you to Parnassos, a family-run taverna. The food is good, but even if it weren’t, the views from the rooftop terrace make it worth the trip.
• +30 22970 91339
Parnassos
Rosy’s does pretty good food, but visitors should also head up to Metochi, the village in the hills just above it. Walk through the windy alleys and your nose should lead you to Parnassos, a family-run taverna. The food is good, but even if it weren’t, the views from the rooftop terrace make it worth the trip.
• +30 22970 91339
What to doThere’s not a lot to do on Agistri apart from chilling out. If you want to stir, Rosy’s can lend you bikes or kayaks, and offers trips in its motorised fishing boat. They also run various courses, such as yoga and shaitsu, as well as live music nights.
Poros Town
Where to stay
The Lemon Tree House
Poros, only 350 metres from the Peloponnese mainland, is a small Greek island-pair linked by a causeway. The main town takes up most of the smaller island and is a buzzing place facing a narrow strait full of boats. The terrace of this well-designed self-catering villa – which sleeps six comfortably, 10 with sofabeds – just above the harbour is a great place to observe the comings and goings.
• £1,895, 020-8941 1700, havenonearth.co.uk
The Lemon Tree House
Poros, only 350 metres from the Peloponnese mainland, is a small Greek island-pair linked by a causeway. The main town takes up most of the smaller island and is a buzzing place facing a narrow strait full of boats. The terrace of this well-designed self-catering villa – which sleeps six comfortably, 10 with sofabeds – just above the harbour is a great place to observe the comings and goings.
• £1,895, 020-8941 1700, havenonearth.co.uk
Where to eat
Karavolos
Just behind the cinema (follow the laughing snail signs – this is what karavolosmeans), this well-known taverna offers a warm welcome from hosts Theo (in the kitchen) and Maria. It serves all the usual favourites plus, of course, stewed snails.
• +30 22980 26158
Karavolos
Just behind the cinema (follow the laughing snail signs – this is what karavolosmeans), this well-known taverna offers a warm welcome from hosts Theo (in the kitchen) and Maria. It serves all the usual favourites plus, of course, stewed snails.
• +30 22980 26158
What to doThe mainland is a five-minute, €1 boat ride from Poros Town. Book a tour, or hire a car to explore world-famous sites such as the theatre of Epidavros, the ancient ruins of Mycenae and Nafplio, one of the most elegant towns in Greece. Other delights include the Devil’s Bridge canyon behind ancient Troezen, a lemon forest, and the volcanic landscape of the Methana peninsula.
Kalavria, Poros
Where to stay
Sirene Blue Resort
For a bit more peace and quiet, stay on Kalavria, the larger Poros island. The Sirene is in a gorgeous location above its own beach and large swimming platform. There are great views from the balconies, a swimming pool, tennis courts, roof terrace restaurant/bar and good facilities for kids.
• £700, +30 22980 22741, sireneblueresort.gr
Sirene Blue Resort
For a bit more peace and quiet, stay on Kalavria, the larger Poros island. The Sirene is in a gorgeous location above its own beach and large swimming platform. There are great views from the balconies, a swimming pool, tennis courts, roof terrace restaurant/bar and good facilities for kids.
• £700, +30 22980 22741, sireneblueresort.gr
Where to eat
Paradisos
This large rural tavern is in the village of Foussa, roughly in the centre of the island. It caters for tour groups but has a reasonably authentic Greek Night and does good local dishes. They are particularly proud of their wild rabbit (best sampled in a stifado – stew with sweet onions) and homemade bread.
• 3km from Poros Town, before the Temple of Poseidon, +30 22980 23419
Paradisos
This large rural tavern is in the village of Foussa, roughly in the centre of the island. It caters for tour groups but has a reasonably authentic Greek Night and does good local dishes. They are particularly proud of their wild rabbit (best sampled in a stifado – stew with sweet onions) and homemade bread.
• 3km from Poros Town, before the Temple of Poseidon, +30 22980 23419
What to doVayionia Bay, on the north coast of Kalavria, is one of the best beaches on the island, and one of the quietest – an important consideration on this sometimes busy island. There’s a beach cafe and sunloungers in the summer.
Hydra Town
Where to stay
Hydra Hotel
Hydra got its wealth from its merchant fleets and this mansion, now a boutique hotel, once belonged to one of its magnates. Later on it was a school, and the large classrooms have now been converted into luxury suites. It’s a fair walk to get up here, but the views are well worth the effort.
• £750, +30 22980 53420, hydra-hotel.gr
Hydra Hotel
Hydra got its wealth from its merchant fleets and this mansion, now a boutique hotel, once belonged to one of its magnates. Later on it was a school, and the large classrooms have now been converted into luxury suites. It’s a fair walk to get up here, but the views are well worth the effort.
• £750, +30 22980 53420, hydra-hotel.gr
Where to eat
Sunset
Eating out on Hydra can be an expensive affair by Greek standards, but you tend to get what you pay for. Sunset is a prime example, and would be worth it for its setting alone – no guessing when to come to experience its full glory. Fortunately the food, a blend of Italian and Greek focusing on seafood, is rather fine as well.
• +30 22980 52067, sunsethydra.com, expensive
Sunset
Eating out on Hydra can be an expensive affair by Greek standards, but you tend to get what you pay for. Sunset is a prime example, and would be worth it for its setting alone – no guessing when to come to experience its full glory. Fortunately the food, a blend of Italian and Greek focusing on seafood, is rather fine as well.
• +30 22980 52067, sunsethydra.com, expensive
What to doJust wandering the car-free alleys of town is joy enough on Hydra. After the decline of its merchant fleets, the island was rediscovered by Greek and foreign artists and musicians during the 1960s – Leonard Cohen still has a house here – and there are always exhibitions or cultural events to stumble upon.
Kamini, Hydra
Where to stay
Petroleka Pension
There are some amazing places to stay in Hydra Town, from boutique hotels to private villas with butlers. For accommodation on a budget you may need to go a little further afield. The little village of Kamini is only a 10-minute walk away, or a short water taxi ride. The Petroleka has a studio for two and a two-bedroom apartment; both are simple but well done, and sit just above the crystal waters of the pebble beach.
• £400, +30 69779 46429, petrolekapension.gr
Petroleka Pension
There are some amazing places to stay in Hydra Town, from boutique hotels to private villas with butlers. For accommodation on a budget you may need to go a little further afield. The little village of Kamini is only a 10-minute walk away, or a short water taxi ride. The Petroleka has a studio for two and a two-bedroom apartment; both are simple but well done, and sit just above the crystal waters of the pebble beach.
• £400, +30 69779 46429, petrolekapension.gr
Where to eat
Ke Kremmidi
To eat cheaply, best head back into town. Although a bit smarter than most, Ke Kremmidi is essentially a kebab joint. A couple of sublime lamb-filled pittas each (more than enough for most appetites) and half a litre of wine will set cost a grand total of €15.
• +30 69726 05126, cheap
Ke Kremmidi
To eat cheaply, best head back into town. Although a bit smarter than most, Ke Kremmidi is essentially a kebab joint. A couple of sublime lamb-filled pittas each (more than enough for most appetites) and half a litre of wine will set cost a grand total of €15.
• +30 69726 05126, cheap
What to doApart from the coast either side of Hydra Town, most of the island is wild and uninhabited. It does reward those prepared to go hiking, however. There are local maps available and many of the routes are signposted, though it’s best to get local advice. To complete the experience, get a water taxi to pick you up from one of several coves that you can trek to.
Spetses Town
Where to stay
Orloff Resort
Not far from the waterfront is this extremely chic hideaway. It’s in the grounds of a 19th-century mansion, but you wouldn’t guess this from the white-washed buildings set among olive trees and round a lovely pool.
• £1,070, +30 22980 75444, orloffresort.com
Orloff Resort
Not far from the waterfront is this extremely chic hideaway. It’s in the grounds of a 19th-century mansion, but you wouldn’t guess this from the white-washed buildings set among olive trees and round a lovely pool.
• £1,070, +30 22980 75444, orloffresort.com
Where to eat
Clock
The harbour area of town, called the Dapia, is where most things go on, but some of the restaurants can be surprisingly pricy. For something a bit different, Clock, on the main square, does good burgers and fries as well as that rarity for Greece, a tasty pizza, all at low prices.
• +30 22980 72259, cheap
Clock
The harbour area of town, called the Dapia, is where most things go on, but some of the restaurants can be surprisingly pricy. For something a bit different, Clock, on the main square, does good burgers and fries as well as that rarity for Greece, a tasty pizza, all at low prices.
• +30 22980 72259, cheap
What to doA single road makes a loop round Spetses, and it can be used to explore the island’s many beaches. One of the most popular is the sand and shingle bay of Ayia Anargyri., on the opposite side from Spetses Town. There is a taverna and watersports centre here, but for the best adventure, explore Berkiris’s cave, beyond the western end. Follow the path and then the steps down into the back of the cave, then dare yourself to swim out through the narrow exit. Islanders hid in the cave when the island was invaded by Albanians in 1770, and it was also a refuge for a wounded British pilot in the second world war.
Hora, Kythira
Where to stay
Niki Rooms
Kythira often feels like the Greece of 20 or 30 years ago. Niki, in the beautiful hilltop capital of Hora, is a sprawling complex of whitewashed buildings with all manner of rooms, studios and apartments. Rooms are plain but do have aircon and can be an absolute bargain.
• £125, +30 27360 31488, kythirarooms.gr
Niki Rooms
Kythira often feels like the Greece of 20 or 30 years ago. Niki, in the beautiful hilltop capital of Hora, is a sprawling complex of whitewashed buildings with all manner of rooms, studios and apartments. Rooms are plain but do have aircon and can be an absolute bargain.
• £125, +30 27360 31488, kythirarooms.gr
Where to eat
Zorbas
This grill house is so old-fashioned the waiters still dress in white shirts and black waistcoats. In the summer it opens a terrace on top of a roof just down the lane.
• +30 27360 31655
Zorbas
This grill house is so old-fashioned the waiters still dress in white shirts and black waistcoats. In the summer it opens a terrace on top of a roof just down the lane.
• +30 27360 31655
What to do
Just down the hill from Hora is the little port of Kapsali, with a beach that’s sandy at one end, shingle at the other. In the distance the rock of Hytra can be seen jutting out of the sea: it’s one of the reputed birthplaces of Aphrodite. Captain Spiros will take you there on his glass-bottomed boat, which has a surprising turn of speed, and then lead you for a swim through its caves.
Just down the hill from Hora is the little port of Kapsali, with a beach that’s sandy at one end, shingle at the other. In the distance the rock of Hytra can be seen jutting out of the sea: it’s one of the reputed birthplaces of Aphrodite. Captain Spiros will take you there on his glass-bottomed boat, which has a surprising turn of speed, and then lead you for a swim through its caves.
Aroniadika, Kythira
Where to stay
Xenonas Fos Ke Choros
Albert and Anita, a Dutch couple, run these superb apartments and studios in the centre of the island. They are also experts on local hiking routes, and run olive-picking holidays in October and November.
• £500, +30 69807 29399, agreekisland.com
Xenonas Fos Ke Choros
Albert and Anita, a Dutch couple, run these superb apartments and studios in the centre of the island. They are also experts on local hiking routes, and run olive-picking holidays in October and November.
• £500, +30 69807 29399, agreekisland.com
Where to eat
Panaretos
Just up the road is Potamos, now the main hub of the island. There’s a market on Sunday mornings in the main square, and you get a ringside seat from this taverna. The market is as much a social event as anything else, and this is a superb place to have an early lunch and people watch.
• +30 27360 34290
Panaretos
Just up the road is Potamos, now the main hub of the island. There’s a market on Sunday mornings in the main square, and you get a ringside seat from this taverna. The market is as much a social event as anything else, and this is a superb place to have an early lunch and people watch.
• +30 27360 34290
What to do
One spot not to miss is Paleohora, the medieval capital of the island. Now mostly in ruins, it is worth a visit for the stunning views as it is almost entirely surrounded by deep gorges. The lazy can even drive here (although it is dirt road for the last bit).
Getting there
The islands are best approached by flying to Athens and then either driving into the Peloponnes or getting the ferry or hydrofoil from Piraeus. Kythira can be reached directly from Piraeus as well, but it’s more fun to explore the Peloponnese and then get a ferry from Neapoli (daily). Another option is a budget flight to Kalamata and a ferry (weekly in season). There are also flights from Athens to Kythira for those in a rush.
From Andrew Bostock, the author of the Bradt Travel Guide Greece: The Peloponnese– new edition out spring 2016
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