The church of Agios Isidoros on an islet close to Langada, Chios. Photograph: Hercules Milas/Alamy
This disparate group of islands stretches from the Greek mainland across the Aegean to the coast of Turkey. Many remain off the beaten track to foreign visitors but reward them with deserted beaches and excellent seafood tavernas
Some islands fall easily into groups, others are left hanging and are gathered into more arbitrary designations. The latter is true of the north-east Aegean, which includes a hodgepodge of islands stretching from lush Samos in the south – just off the coast of Turkey – up to Thassos, 400km to the north and closer to Bulgaria than it is to Athens.
In between are an isolated stretch of islands, often far apart from each other and not well connected. Perhaps because of this, and the difficulty of labelling them easily together, these islands are often overlooked. For those prepared to travel a bit further afield, this is a bonus as, apart from midsummer, they tend to be uncrowded and unspoilt.
Samos is the nearest thing this group gets to “well-known destination”, but it is still more easily reached from Turkey than most of the rest of Greece. It does have its resorts but is big and diverse enough to still reward visitors. It is probably the most instantly attractive of the group.
Heading west, little Fourni is getting increasing recognition as an “unspoilt” gem, and still deserves the reputation. Larger Ikaria is a different kettle of fish and, while not immediately pretty, is worth exploring: the locals have an independent and proud streak that sets them apart.
Chios and Lesbos also hug the Turkish coast. The former has a long and often tragic history but hides many beautiful places away from its couple of beach resorts. Lesbos is one of the biggest of all the Greek islands, and a long visit and exploration will reveal why it is still beloved by artists, historians and modernSapphos.
In the north is a scattering of volcanic islands that remain off-the-beaten track. Limnos has become trendy, especially among mainland Greeks, but remains beautiful and authentic. Samothrace is one of the most dramatic of the Greek islands and is home to a stunning and world-class ancient site. And if you want to see how Greeks party, Thassos is your place.
All prices are for one week’s accommodation for two in August, and include breakfast unless otherwise stated. Prices outside of this month can be considerably cheaper. Greek taverna prices are remarkably similar and, if anything, have gone down in the last few years. You can usually expect to eat well for €15-€20 per head. If places are cheaper or more expensive than this, it is stated in the text.
Samos
Where to stay
Armonia Bay
This is exactly what you hope for from a Greek island hotel. The simple rooms are large and tastefully done, and most have balconies with great views down to the beach, which is a five-minute stroll away – although there’s a pool if you can’t manage that. The hospitality is relaxed and friendly.
• £560, +30 22730 92279, armoniabay.com; family-friendly
Armonia Bay
This is exactly what you hope for from a Greek island hotel. The simple rooms are large and tastefully done, and most have balconies with great views down to the beach, which is a five-minute stroll away – although there’s a pool if you can’t manage that. The hospitality is relaxed and friendly.
• £560, +30 22730 92279, armoniabay.com; family-friendly
Where to eat
Pnaka
For the best food you should head up to the hillside villages above. This meze place has a great terrace in the village of the same name, and serves a great mixture of small dishes and salads to mix and match. Do as the Greeks do and order a little at a time and keep going for as long as you can.
• +30 22730 93297
Pnaka
For the best food you should head up to the hillside villages above. This meze place has a great terrace in the village of the same name, and serves a great mixture of small dishes and salads to mix and match. Do as the Greeks do and order a little at a time and keep going for as long as you can.
• +30 22730 93297
Don’t miss
Most museums on the islands are only for the real enthusiast. The one in Vathy (the Archaeological Museum), the capital of Samos, is an exception, and has one of Greece’s largest statues as its prize exhibit. The old upper town of Vathy is also worth a stroll.
• +30 2273 027469
Most museums on the islands are only for the real enthusiast. The one in Vathy (the Archaeological Museum), the capital of Samos, is an exception, and has one of Greece’s largest statues as its prize exhibit. The old upper town of Vathy is also worth a stroll.
• +30 2273 027469
Fourni
Where to stay
ArchipelagosAs the ferry pulls into isolated Fourni you will be greeted by plenty of locals willing to offer you rooms, some of which are very nice indeed. If you want a bit more certainty in your life, book this port-side hotel that has all the views and facilities you would expect.
• £470, +30 69734 94967, archipelagoshotel.gr
ArchipelagosAs the ferry pulls into isolated Fourni you will be greeted by plenty of locals willing to offer you rooms, some of which are very nice indeed. If you want a bit more certainty in your life, book this port-side hotel that has all the views and facilities you would expect.
• £470, +30 69734 94967, archipelagoshotel.gr
Where to eat
Nikos
For a little island, Fourni has a surprisingly large permanent population (which gives it a more dynamic atmosphere than some). The key to this is its large fishing fleet, which means the island’s seafood tavernas are first class. There are a couple of prominent ones by the port, and Nikos is perhaps the best choice. Lobster pasta is an island speciality.
• +30 22750 51207
Nikos
For a little island, Fourni has a surprisingly large permanent population (which gives it a more dynamic atmosphere than some). The key to this is its large fishing fleet, which means the island’s seafood tavernas are first class. There are a couple of prominent ones by the port, and Nikos is perhaps the best choice. Lobster pasta is an island speciality.
• +30 22750 51207
Don’t miss
A short boat ride from Fourni is the even smaller island of Thymena. The population of barely 100 lives mainly in the little port. A short hike takes you over to an isolated beach and taverna – bliss.
A short boat ride from Fourni is the even smaller island of Thymena. The population of barely 100 lives mainly in the little port. A short hike takes you over to an isolated beach and taverna – bliss.
Ikaria
Where to stay
The Ikarian Winery
Eccentric Ikaria takes a little getting to know, and there is no better place to do that than at this agri-tourism-themed vineyard near the island’s north coast. It has a cluster of traditionally-decorated cottages and is still producing its own wines –offering the opportunity to get involved with production, as well as sample the product.
• £490, +30 22750 31151, ikarianwine.gr; family-friendly
The Ikarian Winery
Eccentric Ikaria takes a little getting to know, and there is no better place to do that than at this agri-tourism-themed vineyard near the island’s north coast. It has a cluster of traditionally-decorated cottages and is still producing its own wines –offering the opportunity to get involved with production, as well as sample the product.
• £490, +30 22750 31151, ikarianwine.gr; family-friendly
Artemis Studios
These simple studios are all about location, with superb sunset views down to one of the prettiest coves in Greece. It comes at a bargain price as well.
• £195, +30 22750 71485, artemis-studio-ikaria.blogspot.gr; family-friendly
These simple studios are all about location, with superb sunset views down to one of the prettiest coves in Greece. It comes at a bargain price as well.
• £195, +30 22750 71485, artemis-studio-ikaria.blogspot.gr; family-friendly
Don’t miss
Chios made its fortune from the harvesting of mastic, a tree resin once chewed in the harems of Ottoman Istanbul. The product is just a curiosity now, but the villages that were based around the industry still make worthwhile visit. The houses of striking Pyrgi are decorated with whitewash patterns on top of the black, volcanic rock underneath.
Chios made its fortune from the harvesting of mastic, a tree resin once chewed in the harems of Ottoman Istanbul. The product is just a curiosity now, but the villages that were based around the industry still make worthwhile visit. The houses of striking Pyrgi are decorated with whitewash patterns on top of the black, volcanic rock underneath.
Lesbos
Where to stay
Aphrodite
Lesbos, with its artistic associations has plenty of boutique getaways; the Aphrodite, on a long stretch of isolated beach, is something a bit more old-school: a classic seaside Greek hotel, down to the two-ring electric hobs in the studios. Don’t expect sophistication, but enjoy the friendly welcome from the Hahathakis family and the relaxed atmosphere.
• £280, +30 22520 61288, aphroditehotel.gr; family-friendly
Aphrodite
Lesbos, with its artistic associations has plenty of boutique getaways; the Aphrodite, on a long stretch of isolated beach, is something a bit more old-school: a classic seaside Greek hotel, down to the two-ring electric hobs in the studios. Don’t expect sophistication, but enjoy the friendly welcome from the Hahathakis family and the relaxed atmosphere.
• £280, +30 22520 61288, aphroditehotel.gr; family-friendly
Where to eat
Akrotiri
At the west end of Vatera beach is the little port of Ayios Fokas, where this seafood taverna is by the sparse ruins of a temple to Dionysus. This is the real deal with freshly caught fish washed down with plentiful local wine. Try the lakerda, a dish of raw, pickled tuna.
• +30 22520 61465
Akrotiri
At the west end of Vatera beach is the little port of Ayios Fokas, where this seafood taverna is by the sparse ruins of a temple to Dionysus. This is the real deal with freshly caught fish washed down with plentiful local wine. Try the lakerda, a dish of raw, pickled tuna.
• +30 22520 61465
Don’t miss
Molyvos is the prettiest village of Lesbos, even with many of its shops now given over to the tourist trade. It is topped by an impressive Byzantine castle that has superb views.
Limnos
Where to stay
Ethaleia
This is a lovely little hotel with a warm heart. Dina, one of the couple who have put their souls into this establishment, is a local, and her love of the land and its culture shines through. The 10 rooms are often booked up by return visitors, and given the views and hospitality you can see why.
• £400, +30 69443 55755, ethaleia.gr
Ethaleia
This is a lovely little hotel with a warm heart. Dina, one of the couple who have put their souls into this establishment, is a local, and her love of the land and its culture shines through. The 10 rooms are often booked up by return visitors, and given the views and hospitality you can see why.
• £400, +30 69443 55755, ethaleia.gr
Surf Club Keros
Glamping arrives in Greece! The Surf Club provides luxury safari tents right by the beautiful beach of Keros Bay. The tents have air-con, comfy beds and even a TV and coffee machine, so you’re really not slumming it.
• £465, +30 69441 56679, surfclubkeros.com; family-friendly
• £465, +30 69441 56679, surfclubkeros.com; family-friendly
Where to eat
Mamas Kitchen (as above)
You are rather in the middle of nature at the Surf Club, but don’t be alarmed as Mamas Kitchen will provide all your needs, from a fresh breakfast to a chill-out area, and then Greek taverna classics in the evening.
Mamas Kitchen (as above)
You are rather in the middle of nature at the Surf Club, but don’t be alarmed as Mamas Kitchen will provide all your needs, from a fresh breakfast to a chill-out area, and then Greek taverna classics in the evening.
Mantella
This is a traditional taverna in the little village of Sardes, the highest of Limnos. Apparently named after Nelson Mandela, everything else about this place is very Greek: hearty portions of local food are served with a smile.
• +30 22540 61349
This is a traditional taverna in the little village of Sardes, the highest of Limnos. Apparently named after Nelson Mandela, everything else about this place is very Greek: hearty portions of local food are served with a smile.
• +30 22540 61349
Don’t miss
What else to do at the Surf Club Keros but try the waves? Lessons and equipment are available in surfing, kite-surfing and windsurfing for adults and children. The surrounding nature area is also well worth an explore, or just a gentle stroll. One of the best things to do on Limnos is to explore its villages and dramatic landscapes. The latter can be seen by visiting the cave chapel of Panagía Kakaviótissa. It’s a stiff, if short, climb, but the views are well worth it.
What else to do at the Surf Club Keros but try the waves? Lessons and equipment are available in surfing, kite-surfing and windsurfing for adults and children. The surrounding nature area is also well worth an explore, or just a gentle stroll. One of the best things to do on Limnos is to explore its villages and dramatic landscapes. The latter can be seen by visiting the cave chapel of Panagía Kakaviótissa. It’s a stiff, if short, climb, but the views are well worth it.
Samothrace (Samothraki)
Where to stay
Archondissa
Set in its own, lovely, gardens, and right by the beach on the edge of the village of Therma, these apartments are spacious and well furnished. Terraces offer views either to the crystal clear sea or up to Mount Fengari, the highest in the Aegean (you can climb it from here, but it’s a good six hours each way).
• £280, +30 25510 98098, archondissa.gr; family-friendly
Archondissa
Set in its own, lovely, gardens, and right by the beach on the edge of the village of Therma, these apartments are spacious and well furnished. Terraces offer views either to the crystal clear sea or up to Mount Fengari, the highest in the Aegean (you can climb it from here, but it’s a good six hours each way).
• £280, +30 25510 98098, archondissa.gr; family-friendly
Where to eat Perivoli T’Ouranou
This nearby taverna sells all the standards to a good quality, with the added bonus of having regular, and sometimes spontaneous, live music performances.
• +30 25510 98313
This nearby taverna sells all the standards to a good quality, with the added bonus of having regular, and sometimes spontaneous, live music performances.
• +30 25510 98313
Don’t miss
Samothrace is a visually stunning island and there is nowhere better to appreciate this than the Sanctuary of the Great Gods. This cult was worshipped here for over 1,000 years, and the site still evokes awe in the visitor.
Samothrace is a visually stunning island and there is nowhere better to appreciate this than the Sanctuary of the Great Gods. This cult was worshipped here for over 1,000 years, and the site still evokes awe in the visitor.
Thassos
Where to stay
Thassos Inn
Thassos can be on the lively side, so it can be nice to get away from it all. This hotel dominates the quiet and attractive hilltop village of Panayia. It’s bright yellow buildings are set round a terrace of plane trees and a carp-filled pools, while inside the simple rooms have terraces with great views.
• £320, +30 25930 61612, thassosinn.gr
Thassos Inn
Thassos can be on the lively side, so it can be nice to get away from it all. This hotel dominates the quiet and attractive hilltop village of Panayia. It’s bright yellow buildings are set round a terrace of plane trees and a carp-filled pools, while inside the simple rooms have terraces with great views.
• £320, +30 25930 61612, thassosinn.gr
Where to eat
Ilias
If you can find them, meze tavernas are often the best places to eat in Greece, giving you the opportunity to try lots of different dishes. This one is just above the small village of Avlaki, serves 40 different dishes, and does an interesting sideline in Moroccan tagines.
• +30 22750 71009, ilias.com.gr
Ilias
If you can find them, meze tavernas are often the best places to eat in Greece, giving you the opportunity to try lots of different dishes. This one is just above the small village of Avlaki, serves 40 different dishes, and does an interesting sideline in Moroccan tagines.
• +30 22750 71009, ilias.com.gr
Nas
If anything this taverna’s terrace has even better views, and the hearty meals carry on the theme of value for money. Also, you can’t help but be tempted to follow the river canyon below to the sheltered cove itself, which is surrounded by wind and wave sculpted rock. It’s a beautiful place, but be careful not to swim too far out as the currents can be deceptively strong.
• +30 22750 71486
If anything this taverna’s terrace has even better views, and the hearty meals carry on the theme of value for money. Also, you can’t help but be tempted to follow the river canyon below to the sheltered cove itself, which is surrounded by wind and wave sculpted rock. It’s a beautiful place, but be careful not to swim too far out as the currents can be deceptively strong.
• +30 22750 71486
Don’t miss
The Ikarians like to do things differently. The four villages of Raches are linked by a well-mapped hiking trail, something that is becoming more common in Greece. They also run on “Ikarian time”. The villagers sleep for much of the day, then open up their shops and tavernas for most of the night.
The Ikarians like to do things differently. The four villages of Raches are linked by a well-mapped hiking trail, something that is becoming more common in Greece. They also run on “Ikarian time”. The villagers sleep for much of the day, then open up their shops and tavernas for most of the night.
Chios
Where to stay
Perleas Estate
In the interior of this popular island is this superbly-restored old mansion set in four acres of land now given over to organic fruit, olives and vegetables. Attention to detail is the key here, with the gorgeous rooms mixing traditional styles with a nod to the Genoan history of the estate.
• £585, +30 22710 32217, perleas.gr
Perleas Estate
In the interior of this popular island is this superbly-restored old mansion set in four acres of land now given over to organic fruit, olives and vegetables. Attention to detail is the key here, with the gorgeous rooms mixing traditional styles with a nod to the Genoan history of the estate.
• £585, +30 22710 32217, perleas.gr
Where to eat
Fabrika
In an old olive press in the market town of Volissos, this taverna specialises in grilled meat (done properly over charcoal). For the carnivore this is heaven (in particular try kokoretsi if it’s on the day’s menu – just don’t ask what it is first) but don’t worry if that’s not your thing as there are plenty of other dishes. .
• +30 22740 22045
Fabrika
In an old olive press in the market town of Volissos, this taverna specialises in grilled meat (done properly over charcoal). For the carnivore this is heaven (in particular try kokoretsi if it’s on the day’s menu – just don’t ask what it is first) but don’t worry if that’s not your thing as there are plenty of other dishes. .
• +30 22740 22045
Where to eat
Drosia
Also in Panayia, this is another reliable standard taverna, specialising in grilled meat, but also offering good sardines and mussels.
• +30 25930 61340
Also in Panayia, this is another reliable standard taverna, specialising in grilled meat, but also offering good sardines and mussels.
• +30 25930 61340
Don’t miss
Thassos is a destination for Greeks (especially those from Thessaloniki) who are looking for entertainment. The island is overpopulated with bouzouki bars, and it’s worth giving them a go, even if only for one night. Ideally go with Greek friends and don’t expect to be home before dawn and without a fair amount of whisky inside you.
Thassos is a destination for Greeks (especially those from Thessaloniki) who are looking for entertainment. The island is overpopulated with bouzouki bars, and it’s worth giving them a go, even if only for one night. Ideally go with Greek friends and don’t expect to be home before dawn and without a fair amount of whisky inside you.
Getting to the north-east Aegean
The larger, southern islands of the chain can be reached by ferry from Athens, and plane from Athens and other places in Greece. In summer, charter flights run from abroad. Limnos can be reached from Thessaloniki by ferry. The two northern islands of Thassos and Samothrace are a more difficult prospect. Ferries run from the northern mainland ports of Kavala and Alexandropouli respectively.
By Andrew Bostock, the author of the Bradt Travel Guide Greece: The Peloponnese– new edition out spring 2016. www.theguardian.com
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