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Wednesday, April 13, 2016

North Carolina Coast: The Best Beaches, Hotels And Restaurants

Waterfront beach houses in Nags Head, Outer Banks, North Carolina. Photograph: Alamy

With its white beaches, warm sea and crab shacks, the North Carolina coast rivals the Caribbean. Douglas Rogers picks its most alluring resorts, plus great places to eat and sleep

W hen my wife and I moved from New York to Virginia three years ago, one of the first things we noticed was an unusual bumper sticker. Every second car (I exaggerate only slightly) had a white oval sign with the letters OBX on it. Often, alongside those three letters, was a skull and crossbones or pirate face. At first we assumed it was a local sports team, until – seeing the same sticker on vehicles from Maryland, Kentucky and the Carolinas – we asked a neighbour to enlighten us.
“Outer Banks, North Carolina,” she said. “Best beaches in America.”
“And the pirate?”
“That’s Blackbeard. He hid out in the Banks, lost his head there. You’re English – don’t you know this?”
I confessed I had no idea. I thought the US’s best beaches – at least on the east coast – were in Cape Cod, Long Island or Florida. As for Blackbeard, to me he was all about the rum-soaked islands of the Caribbean. What was he doing pillaging North Carolina?

But it turns out the Outer Banks – and much of the North Carolina coast – is a pretty decent copy of the Caribbean. In summer, its beach towns and barrier islands, from the Virginia border to Wilmington, near South Carolina, are crammed with surfers, sun-seekers and holidaymakers from across the American south. And with temperatures in the 20s in May and well into October, it’s an ideal (and quieter) choice for some spring and autumn sunshine, too.
People come for powdery white sands, bath-warm water that turns turquoise around the islands, and maritime history: Blackbeard – Bristol-born Edward Teach – was killed in a naval battle off Ocracoke Island in 1718. But the area also has windswept national parks, feral horses descended from Spanish mustangs sent ashore from galleons in the 16th century, and remote colonial beach towns that, until recently, were so cut off that older residents still speak with the regional English accents of their forebears.
The coast is long, of course, over 300 miles, and unlike in California there is no highway to connect it all. It’s good to know where to go before you start to explore. Here are my five best islands and beach towns in the Tar Heel State. Pack your surfboards – and your swords.

Corolla and Duck, Outer Banks

Wild horses on the Beach north of Corolla. Photograph: Alamy

The Outer Banks is a narrow ribbon of barrier islands, barely 100 metres wide in parts, stretching 200 miles from the Virginia border to Hatteras, a windswept fishing village. The main tourist towns are Nags Head and Kill Devil Hills, where the Wright Brothers famously took flight, but the northern villages of Corolla and Duck are more refined, with pretty hedgerow-lined lanes and stilted beachfront mansions.

On our first visit, we rented a house on Corolla’s 4x4 Beach – so named because that’s the only way to get to it. The beach is part of a wild horse sanctuary, and every morning we were woken by neighing mustangs cavorting in our backyard. Bob’s Corolla Wild Horse Tours (from $39 adult, $29 child, +1 252 453 0939) offers two-hour open-top Jeep safaris with expert guides. In Corolla, the red-brick Currituck Beach Lighthouse, built in 1875 is still operational and, from the top, 220 steps up, there are views of Roanoke Island on the inlet side of the Banks, site of the first English settlement in the Americas in 1585. The 107 men and women were never seen again, so the island is referred to as the Lost Colony.
North Banks restaurant, Corolla
This vintage wooden-floored tavern and cocktail bar serves seafood classics such as lobster tail, steamed clams and grilled line-caught fish. It’s not on the water, but the produce is caught fresh by local fishermen on either the ocean or the Currituck sound side.
• Mains from $18, Tim Buck II Shopping Village, 794-G Sunset Boulevard, northbanks.com, +1 252 453 3344
Twiddy Vacation Rentals
This site lists over 1,000 properties in the OBX, from two-bedroom flats to seven-bedroom mansions. Seven days is the minimum stay, but four-bedroom houses cost as little as $450 a week in spring or autumn.
• twiddy.com
The Sanderling, Duck

For those who don’t want to self-cater or can’t stay a week, this is the coolest hotel in the OBX: a chic, orange-hued resort with three pools, a spa, two restaurants and private access to a glorious beach. A day spent in the sun ends around the firepit by the alfresco Sand Bar, as waves crash just beyond the dunes.
• Doubles from $159, +1 855 412 7866, sanderling-resort.com

Ocracoke Island

The village of Ocracoke from the ferry. Photograph: Peter Ptschelinzew/Getty Images/Lonely Planet Images

Only accessible by boat or small plane, Ocracoke (pop: 948) lies 21 miles south of Hatteras in the Pamlico Sound. The free Hatteras ferry only takes an hour, but it lands passengers in an earlier century. Blackbeard hid out on the protected sound side with pal Calico Jack Rackham, just off what is now the busy harbour. Cedar-shaded lanes, crunchy with seashells, lead past period homes and spooky vine-covered cemeteries. Time slows down here: the main mode of transport is the golf cart or bicycle. There’s an annual Blackbeard Pirate Jamboree at Halloween, but the history is not all piratical: older locals still talk of seeing German U-Boats off these shores during the second world war, and the British cemetery is the resting place of sailors from HMS Bedfordshire, torpedoed in 1942. The main attraction, though, is the spectacular coastline. Families will enjoy Lifeguard Beach, with white sand, clear blue water, and showers and toilets. Locals and summer regulars like to drive on to Airport Beach a little way south, to bathe, picnic and fish as the sun goes down. The water is so warm that swimming is pleasant even in October.
Flying Melon Café

There are scores of seafood joints in Ocracoke, notably SmacNally’s on the docks, but the best fish in town is at the Flying Melon, which offers Creole-influenced food cooked by a New Orleans transplant. The parmesan-crusted flounder and drumfish étouffée (stew) are as good as any in the French Quarter.
• Mains from $25, 181 Back Road, +1 252 928 2533
Blackbeard’s Lodge

Ocracoke Island Realty is the main holiday rental company, but characterful Blackbeard’s Lodge is a good choice among the many hotels and motels. Rustic, pirate-themed and timber-built, it is run by a descendant of one of the early Ocracoke settlers, and has a small pool and bike rentals. In the mornings, there’s a wonderful smell of crepes and fresh artisanal breads from the Graceful Bakery food truck, which parks just across the street.
• Doubles from $60, +1 252-928-3421, blackbeardslodge.com

Beaufort, Crystal Coast

White sands, clear waters, sunken galleons … It’s easy to believe you’re in the Caribbean on the Crystal Coast, an 85-mile stretch of shore south of the Outer Banks. Its ocean-side barrier islands can be visited on day trips from the historic town of Beaufort (est. 1718, and dubbed by some “the coolest small town in America”). Atlantic Beach, 20 minutes away by ferry, has two miles of pristine waterfront, an old-school pier and scores of crab shacks, diners and commercial fishing charters. But Shackelford Banks, part of protected Cape Lookout national shore, offers true isolation. It’s possible to sit on a beach towel and watch dolphins cavorting in the waves in front, and horses frolicking on the dunes behind. In Beaufort itself, the North Carolina Maritime Museum on Front Street is the official repository for all the artefacts – masts, anchor, cannons – recovered from Blackbeard’s ship, Queen Anne’s Revenge, which ran aground here in 1718, and was only rediscovered in 1996.
Ann Street Inn

In the heart of Beaufort historic district is this three-bedroom 1832-built guesthouse run by Louisiana transplant Donna Babington. The Duke of Beaufort room has a Jacuzzi and private porch, and breakfasts are decadent: bacon quiche, sausage casserole, shrimp and grits.
• Doubles from $100, +1 877 266 7814, annstreetinn.com
Front Street Grill at Stillwater
This rustic-chic restaurant and rum bar is in a restored marine boathouse right on the waterfront. Recommended are the seared back-fin crab cakes with remoulade ($22), and “dark and stormy” cocktails, made with Goslings Black Seal rum and Saranac ginger beer – every pirate’s favourite poison.
• Mains from $19, 300 Front Street, +1 252 728 4956, frontstreetgrillatstillwater.com

Wilmington

One might expect North Carolina’s largest coastal city to be a trifle rough, but its 300-block historic district is like a live-in Victorian museum. Horse-drawn carriages trot tourists past gorgeous colonial-style mansions, vintage riverboats cruise the Cape Fear river, locals in top hats tout ghost tours down oak-lined streets and everyone keeps an eye out for movie stars. Known as the Hollywood of the east, the city is home to EUE/Screen Gems, the largest US studio complex outside LA. The spectacular beach towns of Kure, Carolina and Wrightsville are only a few minutes’ drive away. Wrightsville Beach is best. Unlike on the barrier islands, it has some large, Florida-style resort hotels, but they overlook crashing waves and white sands, and the crowds are better behaved than at Myrtle Beach across the border in South Carolina. A highlight is surfing lessons for children, teenagers and adults at WB Surf Camp (from $70 an hour, + 1 866 844 7873, wbsurfcamp.com).
Dockside Grill, Wilmington
Steamed clams, hand-cut calamari and rum cocktails are the name of the game at this laid-back spot on the water’s edge. Good ol’ boys and well-groomed yachtsmen pull their boats into the dock and order from on deck.
• Mains from $18, 1308 Airlie Road, +1 910 256 2752, thedockside.com
Shell Island Resort, Wrightsville Beach
This is a slab-like modern all-suite hotel but it overlooks a great swathe of white sand, and has a fully catered beachfront pool.
• Doubles with kitchenette from $130, +1 910 256 8696, shellisland.com

Bald Head Island

A 25-minute ferry ride from Southport, this four-mile-long island at the mouth of the Cape Fear river is a world apart. There are no cars (all rental houses come with golf carts or bicycles) and 10,000 of its 12,000 acres are protected. The result is an ecological idyll with a spectacular oceanside beach for surfers; the calmer South Beach is great for families. Old Baldy lighthouse in the harbour, commissioned in 1817 by Thomas Jefferson, is the oldest in the state, and it’s worth climbing its 108 stairs for a 360-degree view of the island’s natural wonderland of beach, marshland and maritime forest.

Mojos on the Harbor
This is a popular locale for sipping rum and tequila cocktails while watching the fishing boats and ferries come in. It does great sushi, grilled shrimp and line-caught fish, and live bands play most nights.
• Seafood mains from $19, 16 Marina Wynd, +1 910 457 7217, mojosontheharbor.com
Shoals Club
The in-thing for summer regulars is to get temporary membership (from $150 a week) of this family-friendly beach club overlooking Cape Fear Point. It has two pools, an outdoor Sandbar Grille, boules court and formal dining room, so it’s easy to spend the whole day here, between beach, pool and restaurant.
• +1 910 457 733, shoalsclub.com
Bald Head Island Limited Rentals
There’s one hotel on the island – the Marsh Harbour Inn, with doubles from a hefty $275 a night – so house rentals are the way to go. Bald Head Island Limited Rentals has hundreds of homes, from simple one-bedroom cottages to large beach-front homes. I like Captain Charlie’s Three(www.baldheadisland.com/vacation/rentals/captain-charlies-3),, a , a former lighthouse-keeper’s cottage perfect for three couples, costing $2,400 a week. couples.
• +1 800 432 7368, baldheadisland.com/vacation
More information at uk.visitnc.com. On skyscanner.net, flights from Heathrow to Raleigh/Durham via New York currently start at £589 return with American Airlines; Finnair has direct flights from £684

By
Douglas Rogers

Saturday, September 26, 2015

Catalonia Holiday Guide: What To See And Do, Plus The Best Hotels And Restaurants

Cadaqués city on Catalonia’s Costa Brava coast. Photograph: Calle Montes/Getty Images

There’s much more to Catalonia than busy Barcelona; we pick top sights and activities – and, of course, great tapas

Sunday could be a momentous day for Catalonia – and for once it will have nothing to do with the left foot of Barcelona striker Lionel Messi. The ever-restless Catalans are going to the polls in regional elections that pro-secessionists have billed as a vote on independence from Spain.

Its 7½ million people are famously proud – arrogant is how people from elsewhere in Spain often describe them – but they have much to be proud of. Barcelona hogs the limelight, of course, but outside the capital the sheer variety of alluring places to visit – from mountains to coast, lively cities to dozing villages, is staggering.

Four provinces make up Catalonia: Barcelona, Lleida, Tarragona and Girona. I’m going to miss out Barcelona province because the city itself – plus the Montserrat, Sitges and Penedès – already gets more than its fair share of attention, and there’s so much more to be discovered beyond.

Many Catalans don’t think of themselves as Spanish – and they don’t let you forget it. Get a sense of what makes them different by reading Robert Hughes’s Barcelona. It is an entertaining study of the whole land’s history, culture and people.

LLEIDA PROVINCE

Footpath cut into cliffs above the pectacular Mont-rebei gorge. Photograph: Alamy

What to see and do

Even Lleida city’s mum probably wouldn’t say it is the most charming place, but it is home to one of Spain’s standout buildings, La Seu Vella. This 13th-century hilltop cathedral with its majestic tower dominates the skyline and has a vast, breathtakingly beautiful cloister. An hour’s drive to the north-east, the little town of Solsona has a wonderful tangle of medieval streets and the air of a place that knows its luck’s in. The hills around here (seeturismesolsones.com) and south towards the lovely old town of Cervera make for great walking. The tower ofVallferosa on the GR170 is particularly worth seeking out. Even the tiniest village in these parts has its own castle; a prime example is Montfalcó Murallat. Fans ofmodernisme can get their fix near Solsona, at the extraordinary cemetery of Sant Esteve in Olius, with its Gaudíesque parabolic arches.

Further west is the spectacular Mont-rebei gorge, with a narrow footpath cut into the face of a cliff hundreds of metres above the Noguera Ribagorçana river. There’s no handrail, and it’s terrifying – and unmissable.

Heading north into the Pyrenees brings an array of marvellous places. My favourite is absurdly pretty Vall de Boí, where the villages often boast 12th-century Romanesque churches. Many of their frescoes have been moved to Barcelona’s Museu Nacional, but an ambitious scheme to recreate their effect has just been completed at the church of Sant Climent in Taüll. I sat in darkness, and in awe, as its original frescoes were digitally projected, brushstroke by brushstroke, on to the walls. At the northern end of the valley is Parc Nacional d’Aigüestortes, with forests, lakes and peaks crying out to be hiked.

Where to eat

Organic food at L'Antic Forn, Cervera — Organic food at L’Antic Forn, Cervera

In Lleida, Zeke (tapas from €4, Avenida Prat de la Riba 42, no reservations) has some of the most innovative tapas outside Barcelona and is a rare find in a very conservative city. In Solsona, La Gatera (Plaça Sant Pere 3, +34 973 48 15 07) is a real locals’ favourite, with tasty meals for a few euros. Or go trad with snails and pig’s trotters at Restaurant Mare de la Font (around €20pp, Carretera de Bassella, +34 973 483967) in a pretty woodland setting just outside town. In Cervera, the eco-friendly L’Antic Forn restaurant (Plaça Major 18, +34 973 533152) has a very good menú del diá (set lunch) for €13. The hearty mountain fare on the menu atLa Cabana in Boí village (set meal €17, Carretera de Taüll, +34 973 696213) hits the spot after a trek or a hard day’s church-hopping.

Where to sleep

No offence to Lleida city, but it’s probably not worth an overnight stop. In Solsona, Hotel La Freixera (doubles from €99 B&B), in a 14th-century building, is lovely; a little less lovely, but great value and almost as central, is Hotel Solsona Centre (doubles from €53 room-only). In Senterada, charming Casa Leonardo(doubles from €74 B&B, dinner €15pp) is the perfect base for heading south to the Mont-rebei gorge or north into the Pyrenees.

TARRAGONA PROVINCE

Tarragona's Roman Amphitheatre, built in the second century AD. — Tarragona’s Roman Amphitheatre, built in the second century AD. Photograph: Manuel Cohen/Getty Images

What to see and do

Another good thing about Lleida is the road out of town. The drive south follows the Ebro river, Spain’s second-longest, through marvellous scenery to the endless rice fields of the Ebro delta. Day-tripper Barcelonians squeeze into a few beachside spots at weekends and eat bad paella made out of good local ingredients. A better bet is to rent a bicycle (around €10 a day from Hostal Cling 43 in Deltebre, see below) and explore the dusty tracks of the Parc Natural del Delta de l’Ebre, spotting herons, marsh harriers and flamingoes. Pack a sandwich from Hostal El Faro (see below).

Penedès, west of Barcelona, may be Catalonia’s biggest wine-growing area, but Tarragona’s wineries concentrate on quality. El Priorat is a 50km sliver of land north-west of the city, and produces some of the world’s best red wines. Its capital, Falset, is an attractive little town with a modernista winery designed by Cèsar Martinell, who worked with Antoni Gaudí on the Sagrada Familia. Many wine estates offer visits: try Costers del Siurana (+34 977 839276) in the village of Gratallops.

Tarragona was a major Roman city when Barcelona was a provincial backwater but there has been a dramatic change in the cities’ fortunes since, something not even Ryanair flights to nearby Reus could reverse. That means, though, that Tarragona’s magnificent ruins, which include an amphitheatre and a well-preserved Roman circus, don’t get the number of visitors they deserve. Add a delightful old town and a tremendous cathedral and Barcelona’s thronging Ramblas looks, well, less fun.

Tarragona is fascinating, but it doesn’t do barbecued giant spring onions. For that, a 20km a detour north to Valls is essential. But only if it’s late January, when this mildly interesting town is consumed by a passion for the calçot. Hundreds of thousands are wolfed down during its annual festival (festadelacalsotada.com).

Where to eat

Mas de Prades (set menu €18, +34 977 059084) is a farmhouse on the edge of Deltebre – away from the day-trip madness – that serves local specialities such as eel. Hostal El Faro (Avinguda de les Goles de l’Ebre 357, +34 977 480229) in the centre of Deltebre does delicious sandwiches for a few euros to fuel a bike ride.Degvsta (set menu €16.50, Carrer dels Cavallers 6, +34 977 252428) in a splendid modernisme townhouse in Tarragona does a modern take on Catalan classics such as duck confit. There’s a genuine passion for locally sourced ingredients at El Celler de l’Àspic (three course dinner around €30, Carrer de Miquel Barceló 31, +34 977 831246) in Falset.

Where to sleep

Hotel Cal Llop, in Gratallops — Hotel Cal Llop in Gratallops

Masia Tinet (doubles from €60 B&B) is a pretty former farmhouse with garden, but sits on a rather nondescript road at the edge of Deltebre. My pick would be new, friendly Hostal Cling 43 (doubles from €50 B&B) which is in the centre of town and can arrange bike and kayak hire. Boutiquey Cal Llop (doubles from €90 B&B) is a superbly renovated medieval mansion in Gratallops. The owners can arrange winery visits and its bar stocks the superstar local wines. In Tarragona, hotel Plaça de la Font (doubles from €55 room-only) is on a square in the old town and its terrace is a fine place for an evening drink.

GIRONA PROVINCE

Girona cathedral and the Eiffel Bridge over the Onyar river. Photograph: Michal Krakowiak/Getty Images

What to see and do

Who needs Barcelona? The northern city of Girona has history, a fascinating old quarter, interesting food, and no marauding gangs of stags and hens. Its cathedralsits high over the city and is worth the climb for its spectacular 22-metre-wide single nave – only St Peter’s in Rome is wider. The tiny streets and vaulted passageways of the Barri Vell, opening into little squares with bars, are ideal for an aimless stroll and there are plenty of museums for a cultural fix. In the 13th century, the city was home to one of the largest Jewish communities in Spain and this history is explored at the Museu d’Història dels Jueus (€4). The atmosphericBanys Àrabs (€2) is the best-preserved Moorish bath complex in Catalonia.

Girona province has by far the finest coastline in Catalonia, the Costa Brava, stretching for more than 100 miles to the French border. There are so many wonderful places – the ports of Sant Feliu de Guíxols and Palamós, Roman ruins at Empúries, stunning coves near Cap de Begur – that it’s hard to pick one, but my favourite is the town of Cadaqués. It’s surrounded by high cliffs and its little whitewashed houses cluster around the port.

Sculptures in Salvador Dali's garden at Portlligat. — Sculptures in Salvador Dali’s garden at Portlligat. Photograph: Corbis

There are fabulous walks along the coast from here to the tiny village of Portlligat.Salvador Dalí had a house here (€11, book in advance, salvador-dali.org) and was inspired/driven slightly loco by the pure light and fantastic rock formations. Footpaths carry on north-east to dramatic and undeveloped Cap de Creus, or the coast can be explore from the water on a half-day guided trip with Kayaking Costa Brava (€45pp).

Catalonia, a land of volcanoes, who would have guessed? North-west of Girona lies La Garrotxa, a parc natural dotted with around 30 dormant cones. The area around the medieval village of Santa Pau (its white beans, fesols, are famous for no apparent reason) makes for scenic walks, including into the crater of Volcà de Santa Margarida, the largest in La Garrotxa, with a picture-perfect chapel at the bottom. There are loads more walking routes around Sant Feliu de Pallerolsfurther south. If that all sounds too strenuous, hot-air balloon rides (€140pp,en.turismegarrotxa.com) over the craters are popular. The walled town of Besalú,with its 11th-century dog-legged fortified bridge, makes a good base for exploring the area.

Where to eat

Oysters with garlic at Compartir, Cadaques

El Bullí may be closed and El Celler de Can Roca (currently top of the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list) is booked solid/too expensive, but anyone visiting these parts who is interested in food benefits from their massive influence. In Girona,Nu (Carrer de Abeuradors 4, +34 972 225230) has an innovative €54 tasting menu with an Asian twist that is worth the blowout.

El Bullí alumni (they are everywhere) run Compartir in Cadaqués (meal around €50pp, Riera Sant Vicenç, +34 972 258482) and they deserve all their plaudits, but I also like the healthy, simple food at Can Tito (set menu €15, Carrer Vigilant 8, +34 972 259070) just off the waterfront. There are only a handful of tables atAmb els 5 sentits in Besalú (€11.40 for five courses, Carrer Abat Zafont 8, +34 633 633390) and there’s no choice. You just sit down and eat delicious food.

Where to sleep

bedroom at bells oficis, Girona — A bedroom at Bells Oficis, Girona

Bells Oficis (doubles from €40/€85 B&B with shared/private bathroom) is a characterful B&B in Girona just a few minutes’ walk from the main sights. Hotel Port Lligat (doubles from €70 room-only) is remarkably good value bearing in mind its prime spot just metres from the beach. You may never manage to drag yourself away from the view from your room’s balcony. In Besalú, Hotel 3 Arcs(doubles from €70 B&B, hotel3arcs.com) is right in the centre of town in a beautifully renovated building. • There are several budget airlines that fly from the UK to Barcelona, Girona and Reus airports

By Richard Eilers, www.theguardian.com