Seductive Southern Crete

By Chris Deliso

Lonely Planet Writer

 

Although Crete hosts one-quarter of Greece’s annual visitors, it’s still possible to escape the crowds by heading south. Thanks to the rugged mountains that stretch across much of the island’s spine, southern Crete remains a place apart.

Known for their hospitality, traditional music and healthy home-cooking, Cretans are also fiercely independent. They frequently rebelled under Venetian and later Ottoman occupation, with southern strongholds such as Sfakia (a rocky, barren territory centred on the port village of Hora Sfakion) remaining unconquered.

Due to the towering cliffs overhanging the sea, the Sfakia area remains peacefully isolated; nearby settlements such as Loutro, a fishing village shimmering with white houses, or Sweetwater and Marmara (Marble) beaches are accessible by boat (the intrepid can hike there instead). Boat trips hug the coast westward from Hora Sfakion to Paleohora, via Loutro and Agia Roumeli; the latter is where throngs of tired hikers stumble out of the Samaria Gorge – at 16km, Europe’s longest.

Hiking in the Samaria Gorge. Image by Gareth Mccormack / Lonely Planet Images / Getty Images

A boat trip is ideal for traversing the south coast. It concludes at Paleohora – a small town which has preserved its laid-back character, despite being the jumping-off point for popular Elafonisi Beach on Crete’s southwestern tip. The soft pink sands and islet here are undeniably enticing and, except in high summer, serene. Palaeohora also offers great live traditional music; the songs, known as mantinades (15-syllable folk verse accompanied by the Cretan lyra, or violin), fully express the island’s powerful and melancholy spirit.

Crete is big enough to be its own country, and its people love distinguishing themselves from other Greeks. Lakkis Koukoutsakis, a tour guide and restaurant owner in Azogires, a placid hamlet 7km north of Paleohora, sums it up: ‘among us here live about 13 Cretans, eight Greeks, two English and one Dutch’, he quips. It is this sense of otherness that makes the Cretans, especially those from the south, such good company. They can entertain with eccentricity or anecdotes, vex with their stubbornness, seduce with hospitality and amaze with feats of strength. It goes without saying that being among them is rarely dull.

The pink sands of Elafonisi Beach, Crete. Image by Miguel Virkkunen Carvalho / CC BY 2.0

The southern mountains are dotted with tiny traditional villages, fantastic spots to buy hearty local olive oil and thyme honey, though Azogires has a freshwater lagoon where the itinerant nereids – those beguiling sea-nymphs of ancient Greek myth – can allegedly steal a man’s soul on one sacred night each year. More otherworldly characters – the so-called drosoulites, or ghosts of fighters killed by the Turks in 1828 – can apparently be seen marching around dawn each year in late May, over at Frangokastello. This magnificent 13th-century Venetian fortress stands above a tranquil beach east of Hora Sfakion.

Occasional yoga groups visit Azogires, though unruffled Agios Pavlos, further east on the south coast, is more established. Just 3km west, the outpost of Triopetra comprises barely one set of domatia (rooms for rent) complemented by a seafront terrace restaurant. Here, all sense of time quickly recedes, and the menu varies according to the catch of the day. Keenly aware of the irreplaceable value of Triopetra (where some regular visitors book rooms three years ahead), locals protested vociferously when a Chinese consortium sought to build a huge container ship port – as ever through the centuries, the Cretans stubbornly resisted a much bigger foreign intruder.

Frangokastello near Sfakia, Crete. Image by Maria Toutoudaki / Getty Images

Triopetra’s relative inaccessibility and tiny size have kept it blissfully quiet. Yet even the places that attract more visitors, such as lazy Plakias west of Preveli, stand apart from the north and its resorts. Having one of the south’s longest beaches, Plakias has attracted some smallish hotels and restaurants, though the truly extraordinary Youth Hostel Plakias (open from Greek Easter through October) also attracts devotees of all ages.

One of the reasons why Plakias and other southern getaways have remained relatively immune from mass tourism is the terrific summer wind which roars through everything, pelting beach-goers with sand and whipping up whitecaps on the sea. But the winds also drive away the mosquitoes and break through that solid wall of summer heat. Channelled up and down Crete’s mountain canyons – veritable wind tunnels – these stiff breezes are known to locals by individual names, depending on where they come from, how long they stay, and what gifts they bring with them.

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Good but winding paved roads connect the south-coast towns, where the terrain allows. Regular buses run from the north-coast hubs of Hania and Rethymno to Paleohora, Hora Sfakion and Plakias.
This article was first published in August 2010 and last updated in April 2015.

Travelore Tips: 10 Travel Secrets From The Top Hotel Concierges In The world

Concierges are often overlooked as a resource for insider information on any given destination—called upon instead for last-minute theater tickets, restaurant reservations, and the like—but they're also experts at the destinations they represent. Certified Indigenous, a new book released by The Luxury Collection, taps concierges of the world's top hotels for their best destination secrets. Here are some of our favorites.

Ignore what all the guidebooks tell you and skip Moscow’s busy “golden period” (April-June) in favor of winter—yes, really. “Winter is the best season to visit Moscow,” promises Julia Pasechinik, Chief Concierge of Hotel National. “The streets are decorated and look so beautiful, especially at nighttime, when the trees and buildings are lit up and covered with snow. It’s magical.”

“Hire a traditional troika—a carriage pulled by three horses, once the standard mode of transport in cold weather,” adds Pasechinik. “Afterward, have a bowl of hot borscht and a small glass of vodka at Pavilion, like the natives.”

Chris Neidenthal/Getty

Jakarta might be filled with tourist traps, but there’s still lots of authenticity hidden in plain sight—if you know where to look. “Go to Setu Babakan, a cultural village that preserves the indigenous Betawi culture in Jakarta,” advises Teguh Perwira, Chief Concierge at Keraton at The Plaza. “You’ll find traditional houses, see cultural shows, and experience authentic Indonesian traditions.”

If you’re in the Old City, stop by the charming Cafe Batavia. “It’s in the second oldest building in Kota Tua and is the perfect spot for lunch. Grab a window table on the second floor, overlooking the old city hall.”

Ian Trower/Alamy

There's so much more to Vienna than palaces, gardens, and museums; it has a very fun, playful side that most tourists overlook. "Visit the Prater Amusement Park and ride the Riesenrad," advises Dieter Ludewig, Chief Concierge of the Hotel Bristol. "Then hike up Kahlenberg to its peak, Stefaniewarte, for the best views of the city."

Once you've worked up an appetite, "eat lunch at Gastwirtschaft Huth and try the tafelspitz (boiled beef),schnitzel (deep-fried veal), and apfelstrudel. Or, for a quick bite, try a sausage at Würstelstand Bitzinger for a truly local experience."

Shopaholics, rejoice: Turns out one of the best ways to experience the City of Bridges is through browsing its artisan boutiques. “Much of the beauty of experiencing Venice comes from shopping,” admits Filippo Bollani, Chief Concierge at Hotel Danieli. “Stop in the charming boutique Pied-à-terre for a pair of handcrafted leather Furlane, the famous velvet gondolier slippers, handsewn by Friulu countrywomen, using bicycle tires for the soles.”

“Then there’s Nardi. Its jewelry is beloved by clientele that have included Grace Kelly and Elizabeth Taylor. The shop also works with clients to create fabulous bespoke pieces, the ultimate Venetian keepsake. End the day with an aperitif and dinner in Restaurant Terraza Danieli.”

Reda and Co/Alamy

Shanghai

Fight the impulse to see everything in glamorous, action-packed Shanghai and, instead, just take it slow. “Take a walk through the 400-year-old Yu Garden, a tranquil private garden,” advises Stanley Shao, Chief Concierge at The Hongta Hotel. "Stop at Lu Bo Lang for Chinese radish cake and xiao long bao (steamed pork dumplings), or the Pavilion tea house to sip Chinese tea.”

“Do as the locals do and spend an evening taking a mellow boat ride down the Huangpu River, enjoying the lights and spectacle of Shanghai—from afar.”

Alex Segre/Alamy

Mallorca

The island of Mallorca may be best known for its beaches but, according to Mariano Iglesias Moreno, concierge at Castillo Hotel Son Vida, the island’s peaks are equally beautiful. “The Serra de Tramuntana mountains are my favorite natural attraction in Mallorca,” says Moreno.

“Start your day with a mild hike through the mountain range, starting in Esporles. While you’re there, try pa amb oli—an authentic snack of bread with native ramallet tomato squeezed over it, and a dash of olive oil, salt, and various toppings. Later, visit the indoor markets of Palma—Mercat Olivar and Mercat de Santa Catalina—which is like heaven for foodies.”

Marin Siepmann/Alamy

Paris

Paris, like Venice, is best experienced through admiring (and tasting!) the work of its artisans. "Visit the Delisle showroom, where, since 1895, craftsmen have been working with bronze and iron to make custom lighting, furniture, and clocks," advises Marie-Liesse Thery, Head Concierge at Prince de Galles Hotel. "Or arrange for a visit to the workshop of Manuela Paul Cavallier, an artist who use gold leaf to combine a 17th-century aesthetic with a contemporary vibe."

Like cheese? "Visit Fromagerie Quatrehomme on Rue de Sèvres. The family dairy shop has more than 200 cheeses on offer. The owner, Marie, was the first woman to be awarded the title Meilleur Ouvrier de France (Best Craftsman in France) in 2000."

Boris Karpinski/Alamy

San Francisco

When in San Francisco, it's worth exploring outside the city center. "Ride the ferry to the charming town of Sausalito, full of boutiques, outdoor cafes, galleries, and wine shops," suggests Jose Lopez, Chief Concierge at the Palace Hotel. "Spend the afternoon wandering, shopping, and tasting, and enjoy the stunning sights on the water spanning from the Golden Gate to the Bay Bridge on the way back."

"Also visit North Beach, and slip into an Italian cafe for homemade cannoli and delicious espresso."

Bob Kriesel/Alamy

Crete

Crete isn’t all sandy beaches and aquamarine waters; it’s also home to the country’s best wine, according to Konstantinos Skoumbakis, Chief Concierge at the Blue Palace. “Don’t miss Boutari Winery, near the archaeological site of Knossos, where some of the earliest traces of Western viticulture were discovered,” says Skoumbakis. “It’s a state-of-the-art winery that gives incredible insight into the country’s history in winemaking.”

“End the day at the Blue Palace. We light bonfires on the beach and slow-cook the famous antikristo lamb. Bread is baked in a stone oven, and local producers come with their honey, olive oil, herbs, and clay pottery. Crete is a magical place.”

Fanika Zupan

New York

When visiting New York, "touristy" isn't always a bad thing. "Take a stroll through Central Park—it's the world's most famous public park—and see the Reservoir, Belvedere Castle, and the Great Lawn," advises James Jolis, Chief Concierge at The Chatwal. "Art lovers should also visit the Metropolitan Museum of Art, particularly the Ancient Temple of Dendur in the Egyptian Collection."

For food: "Go to Totto Ramen for a quick bite. And indulge in one of the notable restaurants in the Theater District before seeing a show—Betony (pictured) is good for modern American fare, and ABC Kitchen for an intimate downtown vibe."

For concierge secrets in other destinations, check out The Luxury Collection's Certified Indigenous: Exceptional Itineraries for the Global Explorer.

Ilya Savenok/Getty

From www.cntraveler.com