Showing posts with label Jura. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Jura. Show all posts

Saturday, October 10, 2015

Ten Of The World’s Most Intriguing Wine Regions

We’ve all experienced it on our travels – whether watching a sunset in Italy with a glass of chilled Prosecco or at a barbeque in Australia with a beefy Shiraz – when a local wine could not be more perfectly suited to the moment.
Lonely Planet’s new book Wine Trails plots a course through 52 of the world’s greatest wine regions, with weekend-long itineraries in each designed by expert writers, including wine buyers and sommeliers.
And we’ve picked out 10 of the most intriguing regions to show why tasting wine in the place it was made can be a revelation.

Central Otago, New Zealand

New Zealand's Gibbston ValleyNew Zealand's Gibbston Valley forms part of the world’s southernmost wine region. Image by Rolf_52 / Shutterstock
Central Otago is famed for sublime alpine scenery, the energetic resort town of Queenstown and, since the 1990s, some world-class winemaking. Its wild landscapes make up the world’s southernmost wine region with vineyards spread throughout the deep valleys and basins of six sub-regions – Gibbston, Bannockburn, Cromwell Basin, Wanaka, Bendigo and Alexandra.
The local soils have proved excellent for Pinot Noir and Central Otago is lauded as one of the best places outside Burgundy for cultivating this notoriously fickle grape. It would take a good two days’ touring to get a comprehensive taste of the place, with around 30 wineries regularly open to visitors, and many more by appointment (the scene remains largely in the hands of friendly boutique enterprises). Visitors short on time could focus on the Gibbston Valley (with cycle touring a possibility).

The Jura, France

France's Jura regionFrance's Jura region produces some unusual wines – including the extraordinary vin jaune. Image by PHB.cz (Richard Semik) / Shutterstock
Wine has been made in the mountainous Jura for over a thousand years. But only recently have the unusual wines produced in this corner of France come to the attention of the wider world. The majority of grapes cultivated are indigenous varieties and a new generation of vignerons are using them to make their mark, using modern techniques alongside the Jura’s traditional method.
Nothing prepares you for a tasting of the Jura’s extraordinary vin jaune (yellow wine). The aroma is distinctive – a mix of walnuts, hazelnut and exotic spices – but the flavour is altogether something else, dry yet fruity and nutty. Vin jaune is barrel-aged but with a pocket of air left open, much as Spanish sherry is produced.
Wine tourism is in its early days here, but that makes for an even more refreshing welcome when travellers turn up for a wine-tasting in a backwoods domaine.

Rioja, Spain

Vineyard in RiojaFlamboyant Rioja is one of the 'rockstar regions' of Spanish winemaking. Image by Nassima Rothacker / Lonely Planet
Rioja is Spain’s rockstar region, the Jagger to Ribera del Duero’s Richards. It’s flamboyant, and fantastic fun for a wild weekend in the foothills of the Cantabrian mountains, beyond which lies the Basque country and such delights as foodie hotspot San Sebastián. Rioja hit the big-time as wealthy investors splashed out on star architects and state-of-the-art wineries. The result is that there are now 540 wineries in Rioja. Not all are open for tastings, but those that do offer some of the most fascinating visitor experiences in the wine world.
Laguardia, just north of Logroño, makes a good base for exploration. From here it’s easy to reach Haro, where Rioja’s original winemakers set up shop in the 1800s. Tradition is still at the heart of Rioja’s wine but its wineries range from fascinating time-warps to modern engineering marvels.

Wellington, Swartland and Tulbagh, South Africa

The Tulbagh ValleyTulbagh – along with adjoining Wellington and Swartland – offers an alternative to South Africa's long-established wine regions. Image by Hannes Vos / Shutterstock
Cape winemaking has long been symbolised by the grand old established estates in Stellenbosch, Franschhoek and Constantia, where the first vines were planted on the African continent as far back as 1659. But today there is a host of regions further afield in the Cape and for sheer variety, and for smaller family-run wineries who offer a friendly welcome, the adjoining regions of Wellington, Swartland and Tulbagh offer a refreshing alternative.
Winery tastings are more likely to be free here, and, you may well have a face-to-face encounter with the winemaker. Swartland, especially, is home to a band of cutting-edge vintners with small, manageable estates, many of whom are experimenting with biodynamic production.

Rutherglen, Australia

A sign for a Muscat winery in Rutherglen, Victoria, AustraliaRutherglen in Victoria, Australia, specialises in sweet dessert wines such as Muscat. Image by FiledIMAGE / Shutterstock
Rain is welcome in Rutherglen. For the region, deep in northern Victoria, can suffer from searingly hot summers, with grapes having to be harvested in a mad rush before they cook into a jam. But rain cools things down and prolongs the ripening time of the region’s unique Muscat and Tokay vines. And the longer on the vine, the better for Rutherglen’s remarkable butterscotch-flavoured, raisin-rich dessert wines.
Of course, in the age of the calorie-conscious diner, who orders a ‘sticky’ wine (in Aussie lingo)? But Rutherglen’s Muscats and Tokays earn their place at the table, by being idiosyncratic and indulgent. Another reason to visit is the Rutherglen’s history. Several wineries started in the mid-19th century and their stories are entwined with that of Australia, featuring colonial pioneers and gold miners, set to a backdrop of the broad Murray River.

Mendoza, Argentina

A vineyard at the foot of Volcan Aconcagua, Mendoza, ArgentinaA vineyard at the foot of Volcan Aconcagua, Mendoza, Argentina. Image by Ksenia Ragozina / Shutterstock
Chances are you’ve noticed that right now Argentina is hot on the international wine scene. You can’t glance at a wine list without seeing the word ‘Malbec’, or turn on the radio without hearing a chef talk about the best-value Argentinian bottles for your summer barbecue. Even Argentinian people didn’t realise how fantastic their wine could be until fairly recently, though it’s safe to say they were always fully aware of the natural beauty of Mendoza.
The nation’s wine-producing capital occupies a spectacular stretch of sun-drenched landscape at the foot of the snowcapped Andes. It’s a South American playground for innovation, the meeting point between tradition and new technology. Raise your glass: here in Mendoza, it’s a brave new world.

Kakheti, Georgia

Vineyard and Alaverdi Cathedral with Caucasus Mountains in background.Georgia's Kakheti region has a tradition of viniculture dating back to 6000BC . Image by Andrew Montgomery / Lonely Planet
The Georgian wine experience is like no other. The story of wine here is so old, so real, that it can make what we know of ancient Greece and Rome seem like recent history. Georgia is widely recognised as the land where man first learned to tame the wild grapevine, around 6000BC. In most of the country, winemaking technology has changed little since then. Grapes are still harvested by hand, and foot-pressed in the hollowed-out trunks of ancient trees. The juice flows into underground clay amphoras, where it ferments and matures without additives or manipulation.
Kakheti is the most important Georgian wine region. The small city of Sighnaghi is Kakheti’s cultural capital, and it’s the gateway to any visit. As you’re touring, remember that Kakheti’s greatest wines tend not to be found in the open, but in villagers’ backyards, buried underground, awaiting release.

Niagara, Canada

Grape vines in Canada's Niagara regionCanada's Niagara region is home to a diverse range of grapes. Image by KPChuk / Shutterstock
A young and exciting wine region, and Canada’s largest, Niagara sits on the southern shores of Lake Ontario, two hours south of Toronto, and is home to more than just nice wine. The Niagara Escarpment, a long ridge formed by ancient erosion, is responsible not only for the mesmerising waterfall, but also for a diversity of soil types. Add that to a latitude equivalent to Avignon in the Rhône and big shifts between day and night temperatures, and there is potential here for a panoply of different grapes: whites, reds, even sparkling wines are made in Niagara with equal success.
Nearly 100 wineries are located in this youthful zone; the feeling on the ground is like that of starting over. It will be exciting to see what the future will bring for this rising region.

Columbia Valley, USA

Rows of vines near Walla Walla, Columbia Valley, USARows of vines near Walla Walla, the ideal base for a vineyard tour of Columbia Valley. Image by Margaretha Maryk / Shutterstock
Driving out of the weather-beaten city of Seattle, first time visitors to Washington State will have no idea what awaits them on the other side of the Cascade Mountains. Within a couple of hours, the forests and persistent rain give way to the desert terrain of the Columbia Valley. It’s an unforgiving place that happens to be one of the USA’s most exciting wine regions.
There is a frontier spirit about Columbia Valley’s best wineries that is impossible not to admire. The last thing that was in the mind of the region’s original settlers was viticulture, but once they had figured out how to survive they quickly got to thinking about how to thrive. In the bottom-right corner of the state is the charming town of Walla Walla, which bursts with winery tasting rooms and places to eat, making it an ideal base.

South Downs, England

England's South DownsThe gentle countryside of England's South Downs conceals some high-quality vineyards. Image by Matt Gibson / Shutterstock
Overhead a skylark sings in the blue sky. Green fields sweep down from a chalk ridge laced with white tracks. To the south lies the sea, to the north the counties of Hampshire and Sussex. These are England’s South Downs in summer, a place of pretty villages, hiking trails and - incredibly to some - vineyards. For the spine of chalk hills that run southeast all the way from Winchester, an ancient capital of England, to Eastbourne, re-emerges on the other side of the Channel in Champagne country.
English wine was long a laughing stock. But in the last ten years, the South Downs region has been the source of some excellent Champagne-style white sparkling wines. Its wineries are spread out over quite a distance, but a few are concentrated in tranquil Hampshire to make a weekend’s exploration something of a revelation.
Discover the world's finest wine-touring regions, along with their most interesting wineries, as well as the best places to stay and eat, with Lonely Planet's Wine Trails.


Read more: http://www.lonelyplanet.com/travel-tips-and-articles/ten-of-the-worlds-most-intriguing-wine-regions#ixzz3oAzED600

Tuesday, July 28, 2015

Jura Holiday Guide: What To See Plus The Best Bars, Hotels And Restaurants

Baume les Messieurs in the Jura.A jewel of the Jura … the secluded valley with limestone cliffs enclosing the village of Baume-les-Messieurs near Lons-le-Saunier. Photograph: Franck Guiziou/Corbis

The rolling fields, vineyards, mountain ranges and untouched forests of this region of eastern France are packed with wonderful places to eat, drink and stay

If it is still possible for France to have an undiscovered region, the Jura can lay a serious claim, as the lush valleys, thick forests, lakes and mountains of this rural landscape are still very much off the beaten track, even for the French. I should know – my wife comes from around there. After many years spending the sacred month of August on family holidays, I can highly recommend it as a destination to enjoy both the great French pursuits of eating and drinking, plus relaxed biking, hiking, sailing and fishing.
Squeezed between Burgundy, Alsace and the Swiss border, the Jura has no big industrial cities, no famous sights and an economy that essentially revolves around producing outstanding cheese and wine. The market towns of Arbois and Poligny are the foodie capitals, and here you can visit a traditional fruitière – nothing to do with fruit, but a co-operative for making wine and cheese, especially delicious comté.
The Jura is tiny, compared with many of France’s better-known regions, and its countryside rapidly transforms from rural medieval hamlets, surrounded by grazing cows and rolling vineyards, to dramatic Alpine scenery and family ski stations, such as Les Rousses. And for those who come to spend more than just a lazy weekend, there is even the Grandes Traversées du Jura, 300km of trails that can be followed on foot, horseback and mountain bike in spring and summer, or on cross-country skis in winter.

What to do

Winemaker villages
vin jaune
 Photograph: Jura Tourisme
Winemaking in the Jura is still practised on a human scale, with small, mainly organic vineyards run by enthusiastic young vignerons who welcome anyone passing by to taste their very distinctive wines. Create your own wine route through the bucolic villages from Arbois down to Revermont, but be sure to visit Château-Chalon, precariously perched on a clifftop, and Arlay, with its imposing chateau. It’s worth planning a trip at the end of January when these villages take it in turns to host La Percée du Vin Jaune, a riotous festival celebrated by 35,000 people to unveil the new vintage of straw-yellow local tipple – vin jaune.
Les Salines de Salins
Don’t bother with the nondescript spa town of Salins-les-Bains, but be sure to visit the Unesco-listed maze of vast underground caverns and galleries, where salt has been mined in frightening conditions for 1,200 years. It’s amazing to learn that the search for “white gold” only ended 50 years ago.
 Guided tours daily, adult €7.50, child €3.50-€4, salinesdesalins.com
La Maison de la Vache Qui Rit
vache qui rit
 Photograph: Alamy
In the centre of Lons-le-Saunier, capital of the Jura, this brilliant modern museum is irresistible for kids – and for anyone interested in food and design. Dedicated to Laughing Cow, France’s famous processed cheese, the interactive museum has a wonderful collection of posters and advertising, dating back to 1921.
 adult €7.50, child €3-€6, family €21, lamaisondelavachequirit.com
Pays des Lacs
The Jura’s own lake district, in the Petite Montagne nature reserve, is perfect for biking and rambling, swimming and fishing. Within an hour’s drive are the wild ice-age lakes of Bonlieu and Narlay, the 60-metre-high Hérisson waterfalls, and the sandy beaches and turquoise waters of Lac de Chalain.
La Sergenterie, Poligny
Le Sergenterie, Jura
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 Photograph: John Brunton
Poligny’s town square is dotted with dairies and wine bars offering tastes of their famous vins et fromages, and both feature prominently on the menu of the casual Sergenterie restaurant. Steep stairs lead to a 17th-century vaulted cellar, a comfortable locale for a relaxed and lengthy meal of cuisine de terroir. Expect huge portions and delicious dishes like smoked pork knuckle in creamy comté sauce, or rösti with juicy morteau sausage smothered with hot cancoillotte, a naturally runny, low-fat cheese.
 Set menu from €9.50, 31 place des Déportés, +33 3 84 37 37 11,lasergenterie.com
Le Grapiot, Pupillin 
With its stunning avant garde wooden exterior, the Grapiot is quite a shock in this sleepy vineyard village, and the innovative cuisine of talented young chef Samuel Richardet is even more of a surprise. The five-course tasting menu at €50 (€60 with wine pairing) is brilliant value and might include trout sushi stuffed with fresh goat’s cheese, slow-cooked saddle of rabbit, and chocolate “spring rolls” with a tangy lychee sorbet.
 Set three-course lunch €20, rue Bagier, +33 3 84 37 49 44, legrapiot.com

Le Bistrot des Terrasses, Plaisia
It is not easy to find this bright, modern wooden chalet, off a narrow country road near the Jura lake district. But young, dynamic owners Isabelle and Eric Giudici – who only opened two years ago – have won a faithful following with their enthusiasm for healthy zero-carbon food, sourced solely from surrounding farms. The menu features locally fished trout, organic seasonal vegetables and morbier, comté and goat’s cheeses from the village fruitière.
 Three-course menu €22, 1 route d‘Onoz, +33 3 84 47 54 20,lebistrotdesterrasses.blogspot.fr
Le Bistrot des Claquets, ArboisFood lovers visiting Arbois are spoilt for choice: at the top end, there’s two-Michelin-star chef Jean-Paul Jeunet’s eponymous gastronomic temple. For a more rustic experience, there’s La Finette, a tavern specialising in succulent chicken braised in vin jaune, cream and morels. But the best deal in town is at the delightfully retro Claquets, serving genuine cuisine du marché (market cooking). A self-service buffet of healthy starters, such as lentil salad and carrot and lemon terrine, is followed by a plat du jour and homemade fruit tart for dessert.
 Three-course lunch €15, 33 rue de Faramand, +33 3 84 66 04 19

Where to drink

Le Bistrot de Port Lesney
Le Bistrot de Port Lesney.
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On the bank of the Loue river, the shady terrace of this traditional bistrot is the perfect place to try the area’s unique wines: light and drinkable reds, made from the indigenous trousseau and poulsard grapes, and the distinctive white savagnin. Raymond Blanc fans may recognise the Bistrot from his Very Hungry Frenchman TV series – he’s a local boy.
 Place du 8 Mai 1945, +33 3 84 37 83 27, bistrotdeportlesney.com
Maison des Vins, L’Etoile
L’Etoile is tucked away at the foot of an idyllic valley lined with vineyards, but visitors tend to pass over the Maison des Vins because it looks like a tacky, modern convenience store. Inside, though, the bar is always buzzing, as this is the village’s favourite watering hole. More than a wine bar, it stocks local artisan beer Rouget de Lisle, a craft cider, and lethal fruit brandies.
 21 route de Robinet, +33 3 84 24 06 93, maisondesvins-jura.com

Bistrot Chez Janine, Nevy-sur-Seille
Bistrot Chez Janine.
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 Photograph: John Brunton
Authentic village bistrots like this one are disappearing fast but la patronne here, Madame Dédé, makes sure nothing changes, from her vintage table football to the battered leather sofa, rickety oak tables – where villagers like to sit and discuss their wine production – and the all-important summer pétanque competition she organises.
 Route de la Vallée, +33 3 84 44 62 43
Le Bistrot de la Tournelle, Arbois
Each summer, the crowds get bigger at Arbois. From 20 June to the end of August, eco-vignerons Evelyne and Pascal Clairet transform their waterside garden into what the French call a guinguette, a lively outdoor cafe where they serve their excellent organic wines, alongside specialities from Jura food producers. Each afternoon turns into a long, lazy picnic.
 5 Petite Place, +33 3 84 66 25 76, domainedelatournelle.com

Where to stay

Le Relais des Abbesses, Château-Chalon

Chateau Chalon.
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 The village of Chateau Chalon. Photograph: John Brunton

Housed in an ancient coaching inn, which is perched on the hillside village of Château-Chalon, this B&B has five cosy rooms, several of them with spectacular views. One of the Jura’s most famous vins jaunes is made here – an intense, sherry-like wine aged for more than six years. Make time for a tasting at nearby winemaker Domaine Credoz.
 Doubles from €80, +33 3 84 44 98 56, relais-des-abbesses.fr
L’Entre Coeur, Ménétru-le-VignobleEric and Sarah Goypieron have recently renovated an ancient stone farmhouse in the middle of their vineyards into a smart winemaker/B&B. The rooms are bright and modern, the hearty breakfast includes homemade cakes, and each evening guests are invited down to the cellar for a tasting of their organic vintages.
 Doubles from €90, +33 6 95 08 73 54, chambredhote-entrecoeur.fr

Château de Marigna, Marigna-sur-ValouseIn the grounds of a massive medieval castle, a farmhouse, barn and 15th-century dovecote have been transformed into smart guest rooms. The feel is more classy B&B than luxury hotel. It is surrounded by its own forests and lake, with free bikes for exploring, and there are special activity packages on offer, including horseriding and kayaking stays.
 Doubles from €90 B&B, three-storey dovecote €140, +33 6 86 12 15 30,chateaudemarigna.com
Château de Germigney, Port-LesneyThis chateau was built in 1700 as a hunting lodge for the local marquis and is the perfect lavish bolthole for a splash-out stay, though room rates are not outrageous. It is set in beautiful gardens with a landscaped pool, and has a Michelin-starred restaurant.
 Doubles from €100, +33 3 84 73 85 85, chateaudegermigney.com
For more information about the region, go to jura-tourism.com. EasyJet has return flights to Lyon – the nearest airport – from £65, easyjet.com, or travel on Eurostar to Lyon from £89, eurostar.com. Car hire was provided by carrentals.co.uk

By , www.theguardian.com
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