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How To Be Sure You’re Buying A Real Bottle Of Chianti

• Laura TaccaniLa Dolce Vita

LA DOLCE VITA

Forget the flask, the pot-bellied straw-covered bottle that evokes checkered tablecloths and trattorias. Chianti Classico, which is the international symbol of fine Italian wine, boasts a very respectable pedigree. So it must be considered for what it truly is. It comes in a Bordeaux bottle and has a sort of passport distinguishing it from numerous wannabes but also from a different DOCG (controlled and guaranteed designation of origin) like ordinary Chianti. The name is the first thing to clarify.

Because if we cut the defining adjective from Chianti Classico for the sake of brevity, not only are we saying something very inaccurate, but we are also offending a wine whose territory—very small—was defined exactly 300 years ago. It was the Grand Duke of Tuscany, Cosimo III de’ Medici, who issued an edict on September 24, 1716 establishing the boundaries for the production of this drink made with at least 80% Sangiovese grapes. Even then it was in great demand abroad, gaining prestige and commercial value. Just by way of comparison, other illustrious wine areas like Bordeaux and Burgundy were not established until the 1800s. But a century before that, the original Chianti (which would later be called “classico”) could be produced in only nine municipalities in the geographic area for which it is named. We are talking about 70,000 hectares—nearly 173,000 acres—in the provinces of Florence and Siena, while the wine simply called Chianti is produced all over Tuscany, with the exception of the Chianti Classico area.

LA DOLCE VITA

Today Chianti Classico is the worldwide ambassador of fine Italian wine and its top market is the United States. A whopping 31% of the total production ends up in the US and if we add the 10% exported to Canada, this means that more than one-third gets shipped to North America. It’s easy to understand why it’s so popular. Chianti Classico is fruity and very versatile—if you want to impress people, you can tell them that this is due to its acidity—making it perfect with a variety of foods. In particular, it is the perfect foil for the fats in dishes like red meat, game and cheese. Given its popularity, however, you need to be sure you’ve bought the real thing, because there are numerous counterfeits. That’s why the Chianti Classico Consortium provides specific indications that allow you to find your way all the bottles in circulation.

LA DOLCE VITA

1. Look for “Gallo Nero”: the black rooster.

The logo distinguishing this wine must be on the neck band or back label. It’s easy to find, so if you don’t see it, just put the bottle back. The Consortium also works to monitor possible counterfeiting of the label.

2. The production area.

As we said, it is exclusively in the provinces of Florence and Siena.

3. The indication of type. There are three: Annata, Riserva and Gran Selezione. The first is the younger production, aged for at least 12 months. The second is aged for at least 24 months, part of which in wood (barrels or barriques). The third is a Chianti Classico that is at least 30 months old, made exclusively with grapes from the estate bottling it. Here we’re at the top. So bottom’s up!

LA DOLCE VITA

 

Bordeaux Label Decoder -How To Decipher The Famous Region's Labels Like A Pro

Learn how to decipher the famous region's

 labels like a pro.

BY WINE ENTHUSIAST

• 8

Whether shopping for the cellar or Tuesday night’s dinner, stare down your shop’s selection of Left Bank reds like a pro with this at-a-glance guide to deciphering the famous region’s uuuuh-inducing labels.

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Left Bank Basics

There are two major regions: Médoc (known for its reds), and Graves (known for reds and whites). While great pours can be had throughout Bordeaux, in general, the smaller the appellation d’origine controlée, or AOC, the higher the quality.

MÉDOC AOCs: 
Starting with the largest AOC, there’s Médoc, then the subregion Haut-Médoc and its famed Haut-Médoc communes: Listrac-Médoc, Margaux, Moulis-en-Médoc, Pauillac Saint-Estèphe, and Saint-Julien.

GRAVES AOCs: 
Starting with the largest AOC, there’s Graves, then the subregion Pessac-Léognan. For sweet whites, there’s Graves Supérieures, Sauternes—which encompasses the smaller Barsac subregion—and Cérons.

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Standard Bordeaux label.

1. Mis En Bouteille Au Château
Means bottled at the estate, within the listed region. If the label says, “Mis En Bouteille Au Domaine,” it was bottled in the region. If you see “Négociant,” the grapes, the juice or the wine were bought, but released under a different brand.

2. Grand Vin
This means “great wine.” It may be great, but anyone can throw this unregulated term on a label.

3. This tells you it’s a Cab Blend 
Left Bank reds are typically blends of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc, and may include Petit Verdot and Malbec. Most Left Bank dry whites are Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc blends. The best often hail from Graves and Pessac-Léognan, the only Left Bank appellations that may list their regions on white wine labels.

4. Top Dry-Red Vintages 
1961, 1970, 1978, 1982, 1985, 1990, 1996, 2000, 2005, 2009 and 2010

5. The Big House
According to French law, a label can only feature a chateau if it’s the original house and still standing.

6. The Bordeaux 1855 Official Classification
After Napoleon requested Bordeaux wines be classified for the Paris World Fair, 61 Left Bank chateaus were divided into five “growths.” The system has nothing to do with grape growing, and while it was supposedly based on reputation and pricing—not quality (wink)—it still is seen as a ranking of the top producers. It consists of 60 chateaus in the Haut-Médoc and one in Pessac-Léognan.

The 5 Premier Crus Classés 
Château Haut-Brion
Château Lafite Rothschild
Château Latour
Château Margaux
​Château Mouton Rothschild

The Rest
Chateaus within the four other tiers are labeled Grand Cru Classé 1855.

Are 1855 Wines Better?
No. Historically, the 61 chateaus have been the standard bearers among hundreds of producers in Bordeaux. Still, a Napoleon-era declaration doesn’t preclude anyone from making terrific wine.

Published on March 11, 2015