Travelore Tips: 4 Walks To Do In Paris Away From Classic City Tours

Even if I perfectly understand that when you come to Paris, you wish to visit the “must-see” attractions, I would like in this article to propose five walks a bit away from classic city tours. If you stay several days in Paris, it should be easy to find enough time for to the Tour Eiffel or Notre Dame. So just pick one of the following for something completely different.

La Butte-aux-Cailles

With all due respect to Montmartre fans, La Butte-aux-Cailles (located in the 13th arrondissement) is really the highest point of the French capital (63m). This working-class district is bursting with funny little surprises and is very popular due to its cafés and restaurants in particular. One such establishment is the cooperative restaurant ‘Le temps des cerises’. It’s easy enough to find; just head for Rue de la Butte-aux-Cailles. On the same street, there’s a shop called ‘Les Abeilles’ where you can buy honey produced by Parisian beehives. Then as you turn into another cobbled street, you might just chance upon one of the works of the famous street art artist Miss Tic or other very interesting pieces. Place Paul-Verlaine is an important stop when visiting La Butte-aux-Cailles, it hosts one of Paris’s oldest swimming pools. Inaugurated in 1924, the swimming pool is now a listed building. The square also boasts an intriguing fountain, which is actually an artesian well dating from 1866. It boasts very pure water which I recommend…

Les Catacombs

Paris is also home to quite remarkable catacombs, with different origins. They served as an underground ossuary for more than 6 million skeletons. At the beginning of the 19th century, the authorities decided to have them taken away from the capital’s dirty cemeteries and stored together underground in what used to be quarries, accessible from the Place Denfert-Rochereau. This was a gigantic mission, for transporting all those skeletons at night and storing them in vast, endless tunnels was no mean feat. Today, they are all perfectly ordered, without anything to indicate their social status or date of death. Do go and take a look at the millions of shinbones, arms and skulls, it’s a unique experience. At first, it is simply staggering and following a bit of metaphysical questioning about our own fates, surprise at seeing all these piles of bones takes over, after which you acclimatise and finally lose interest… as life quickly get the upper hand again!

The tour will leave you musing, even shivering. For that matter, bring along a jumper as you will be feeling the chill mid-visit. One final remark: claustrophobics are advised to steer clear!

La Coulée Verte

The Promenade Plantée (tree-lined walkway), also commonly referred to as the Coulée Verte (green path), is a green area located in Paris’ 12th arrondissement. This 4.5km walk takes you along a former railway track which linked Bastille to Saint-Maur until 1969. It was bought in 1986 by Paris City Council for redevelopment, which led to the creation of the Coulée Verte by the architects Philippe Mathieux and Jacques Vergely. The Promenade Plantée offers a relaxing setting and a very interesting view of Paris. Leading above-ground and below, the Coulée Verte enables you to cross the 12th arrondissement from one side to the other, exploring the many secrets and treasures it contains. I’m thinking particularly of the Viaduc des Arts on Avenue Daumesnil, home to fifty or so craft workshops (creators, furniture restorers, etc.) or the former Reuilly Station. Trees and parks are spread along the walkway of course, such as Hector-Malot Park and Charles Péguy Park. The Promenade Plantée is the perfect place for a unique and relaxing walk. NB: please be aware that you should verify the Coulée Verte’s opening hours before your visit.

Le Parc de la Villette

I could have mentioned it in my previous article about the gardens to discover in Paris, but I preferred to keep it for this article. The Parc de la Villette, extending over 55 hectares of land, and crossed by the Ourcq Canal, is the biggest green space in Paris. Built on the site of the old city abattoirs in Paris, the Parc de la Villette is home to the Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie, the Géode, the Zénith de Paris, the Cité de la Musique, la Grande Halle de la Villette, the Cabaret Sauvage, the Travendo and the Théâtre Paris-Villette. It also hosts a range of film and music festivals. Lastly, it is interspersed with a whole series of differently themed gardens. Let’s take a closer look at the Géode, the biggest cinema in France, which was inaugurated in 1985.

Demonstrating remarkable technical prowess, the cinema consists of a central arborescent pillar surrounded by 386 tiered seats enveloped in a metal structure consisting of more than 6,000 triangles. The hemispherical screen which covers 1,000m2 plunges viewers into the heart of the image during screenings of documentaries, scientific films and concert programmes. Finally, hats off to the musical water clock installed in the square basin in which the Géode sits. This clock gives off strange crystal clear chimes every second, minute and hour. This is a nice link to the Cité de la Musique, which I’ll rapidly mention! Inaugurated in 1995, it rapidly became the capital’s favourite place for all kinds of musical performances, with its large, flexible hall seating more than 1,000 people. Home to the Ensemble Intercontemporain and the Centre de Documentation de la Musique Contemporain, the Cité de la Musique includes a multimedia library and the remarkable Musée de la Musique which houses thousands of works from throughout the history of music. You will also find Paris’ Conservatoire National Supérieur de Musique et de Danse. And that’s not all! There are thousands of other things to say about the Parc de la Villette and hundreds of activities throughout the year.

Le Marché aux Puces

With 11 million visitors a year, the Saint-Ouen flea market is home to the biggest collection of antique dealers and second-hand goods traders in the world. Made up of several different markets (Biron, Vernaison, Malik, Paul-Bert, Serpette, Malassis Dauphine, etc.), it brings together around 2,000 stalls and shops over seven hectares. There are, without question, antiques for sale, but there are just as many stalls selling clothing, novelty items, lighting, jewellery, toys, books, period clothing, scientific objects, sports equipment, tools, car parts, hardware and military items! And it takes place every Saturday, Sunday and Monday throughout the year. Parisians and tourists (80% of visitors) alike enjoy coming here to look around, buy and take a stroll in a very distinctive atmosphere. Popular music can be heard all around, including « Jazz-Manouche » which Django Reinhardt’s successors continue to play each week in the local cafés.

More than just a market, the ‘Puces’ is a meeting place for different cultures, generations, classes and styles. Take, for example, the bucolic and picturesque setting of the Vernaison Market, the small wisteria-covered pavilions on rue Paul Bert, the shaded patios of the Malassis Market, the sumptuous boutiques at the Biron Market and the hushed atmosphere under the covered passageways at the Serpette Market. Going to the flea market is like taking a poetic stroll, freeing your imagination, in another world right next to Paris. There is one slight drawback: more and more new furniture traders are setting up here which spoils the traditional image of the place. And be careful of pickpockets and counterfeit goods. In short, apart from the real antiques on display (sold for a small fortune), the flea market is above all a sight to behold. Go along simply to contemplate the passers-by, but not really to buy anything. Finally, where does the name ‘flea market’ come from? It seems that originally, the name was given to the clothes found in dustbins by the rag-and-bone men and that the Paris City Council sent away to St Ouen for hygiene reasons. Something about fleas no doubt…

Contributed by Didier Moinel Delalande, Director at Hotel Mathurin. ww.luxurytravelblog.com

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Off The Beaten Path In Paris – 5 Must Do’s In The City of Light!

Paris, one of the most famous and beautiful cities in the world: We are all aware of the Louvre and the Eiffel Tower, but what about those secret, lesser known must sees that are hidden within the historic city?

Here are five of the most interesting sites and activities for a first timer or a Paris regular, that are somewhat off the beaten track.

1. Covered Passages

The covered passages of Paris are an existing remnant of the rise of the middle classes during the Nineteenth Century. These quaint passages can be described as early incarnations of indoor department stores and malls. Less than thirty of these passages still exist in modern-day Paris.

Two of the most famous can be found behind the Palais Royal – the Galerie Vivienne and nearby Galerie Colbert. It’s a wonderful way to experience old culture and a perfect spot to visit when it rains.

2. Canal St. Martin

The picturesque Canal St. Martin is often overlooked by many first time visitors in favor of sites with bigger names, but Parisian locals will tell you it’s hard to find a more beautiful spot in the entire city. The calm and quiet location is perfect for an evening stroll with a loved one. Visitors who enjoy a more structured approach can join one of the walking tours available in the area or hop on a Canauxrama barge for a ride on the canal.

3. Marché de l’Olive

The Rue Riquet neighborhood, languidly stretching from the edge of the 18th arrondissement to the end of the quay of the canal in the 19th arrondissement, was noted as an area famous for its collection of bustling Asian supermarkets and slew of smoke-filled bars and cafés.

The covered Marché La Chapelle is one of the more favored local spots where tourists or foodies can pick up batches of delicious fried tofu, ingredients for Korean staple Kimchi, and other eclectic Asian delights one would normally have trouble finding at the traditional markets.

4. Charming Belleville

Home to one of the city’s more alluring Chinatowns, Belleville has a charm all its own and a distinct bohemian feel. Originally the area was a wine-making village where locals would meet up at country cafes known as guinguettes. Now it’s a working class neighborhood, a mix of cultures and cuisines, and a haven for artists.

Artists and craftsmen in Belleville excelled in everything from woodworking, painting, performance arts, sculptures, photography, video displays, as well as other popular forms of modern street art and graffiti. The Portes Ouvertes des Ateliers de Belleville takes place each May. Artists open their doors for a few days to interested onlookers and tourists, showcasing their work and studio space.

Make time for a visit to the popular Parc des Buttes Chaumont and the lesser known Parc de Belleville,which happens to be the highest park in all of Paris. If you don’t mind the climb, you’ll be rewarded with fabulous panoramic views of the city!

Roman Ruins

It’s pretty well-known that the South of France is littered with Roman ruins, but the good news for history buffs is that Roman roots can also be found in Paris.

Known as Lutetia by the Romans, many hints of Paris’ ancient past are scattered throughout the city. They include a coliseum, pillars, walls and even thermal baths.  The Roman Baths at Cluny and the Archaeological Cryptlocated near Notre Dame both hold interesting secrets and discoveries about the city’s Roman history.

The Roman amphitheatre, Les Arènes de Lutèce is one of the most intact examples and is used today for concerts and the impromptu game of petanque. More info on a self-guided tour of Roman Paris can be found here.

From mymelange.net/

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Picasso Museum In Paris To Open After Renovations In September 2014

Contributed by Jamey Keaten, AP.

This photo provided Monday May 12, 2014 by the Picasso Museum shows the facade of the museum. Paris proudly hosted Picasso for decades. But two controversies around the artist’s legacy are now haunting French officials. One centers on the Paris Picasso Museum, where renovations have dragged for five years amid accusations of mismanagement, labor problems and clashes between the artist’s family and the French government. The re-opening has now been pushed back until September _ after the summer tourist season. The other is about the fate of a Left Bank studio where Picasso lived and worked for 19 years, and painted his famed anti-war opus "Guernica” in 1937. A historic preservation panel is meeting Tuesday to decide what’s next. (AP Photo/Beatrice Hatala, Musee Picasso 2014)

 Paris proudly hosted Picasso for decades, but two controversies around the artist's legacy are now haunting French officials.

One centers on the Paris Picasso Museum, where renovations have dragged for five years amid accusations of mismanagement, labor problems and clashes between the artist's family and the French government. The re-opening will be in September.

The other is about the fate of a Left Bank studio where Picasso lived and worked for 19 years, and painted his famed anti-war opus "Guernica" in 1937. A historic preservation panel is meeting Tuesday to decide what's next.

As with many of the Cubist great's works, little is as it first appears.

A legal group has owned the 17th-century manor containing the studio since before Picasso worked there, and now wants to renovate it - perhaps as a luxury hotel.

Some high-profile art lovers are up in arms and say the studio deserves state protection from re-development. The case has raised questions about whether the birthplaces of great art - not just the works - deserve state protection from re-development as part of national heritage.

The Culture Ministry last year ordered a one-year pause to any development while officials consider the implications. That expires in July.

The panel meeting Tuesday may put it on a national register of historic sites, which could make any redevelopment more costly and time-consuming at the least.

A group of artists and actors including Britain's Charlotte Rampling have signed on to a petition decrying any possible redevelopment.

Pablo Picasso spent 19 years living and working in the Hotel de Savoie, as the manor is known. A plaque out front notes how "Guernica," his famed painting decrying Spanish Civil War bloodshed, was painted there in 1937.

Whatever officials decide, the redevelopment "will in no way impact the historic character of the building," said Alexandra Romano, a spokeswoman for the site's owners. She declined to specify the "several" development plans being considered, adding, "This battle doesn't honor the legacy of 'Guernica'."

Alain Casabona, an official at the state-backed National Committee for Arts Education, says the owners want to make the building a hotel. The committee enjoyed free office space in the studio for a decade.

Casabona was quoted in Le Parisien newspaper as suggesting that the birthplace of "Guernica" might become a "jacuzzi suite." He later told The Associated Press he was being provocative with that remark.

Two French cultural officials, speaking on condition of anonymity because they weren't authorized to discuss the matter publicly, said the studio bears no visible traces of Picasso's presence. One noted that the artist was evicted in 1955 for not paying his rent.

Culture Minister Aurelie Filippetti's office said last week that she favors stronger protections for the site, and instructed envoys to the preservation panel to vote to put it on a historic register.

Filippetti has a bigger public headache when it comes to Picasso.

Claude Picasso, the painter's son, has spoken out this month to denounce delays in reopening Paris' Picasso Museum, one of the city's premier art attractions.

The 52-million-euro (about $72 million) renovation of the Hotel de Sale, in the celebrated Marais district, is set to double the possible number of visitors and allow for the presentation of 400 artworks in 37 rooms, the ministry said.

Speaking to Le Figaro earlier this month, Claude Picasso said Filippetti had told him that troubles getting security guards in place, as required under French regulations, were behind the delay. Picasso said he couldn't understand that, and that he had the impression France "doesn't care" about him or his father.

Filippetti's ministry then lashed out in a statement at "erroneous" media reports about the delay, and called on "everyone to get past personal interests" and get enthusiastic about the upcoming reopening.

"No polemic will sway the state from its mission" to protect and display national heritage, and to ensure proper workplace conditions and completion of the renovation, the statement said.

The museum's beauty and rich collections, it said, will "in no way suffer from an opening in September."

80 Year Old Paris Zoo To Re-Open With New Look

Contributed by Jamey Keaten, AP.

A man photographs an Agami, at the Vincennes Zoo, in Paris, Tuesday, April 8, 2014. Its gray, man-made mountain that might lure King Kong still protrudes over treetops, but nearly everything else has changed as Paris' best-known zoo prepares to re-open after a multi-year, multimillion-euro (dollar) makeover. (AP Paris/ Thibault Camus)

 Its gray, man-made mountain that might lure King Kong still protrudes over treetops, but nearly everything else has changed as Paris' zoo prepares to re-open after a multi-year, multimillion-euro (dollar) makeover.

A lone lion was lounging, the baboons burrowing, and lemurs leaping from branch to branch as the Zoological Park of Paris opened for a herd of journalists on Wednesday before a grand re-opening this weekend.

Gradually, and with no lack of logistical headaches, the 80-year-old Paris attraction returned to life: Macaws cackled, red ibises perched on one foot on a greenhouse rail, and the stench of giraffe manure wafted through a cavernous indoor pen - certifying that, yep, this is a bona fide zoo.

The 65-meter (215-foot) Grand Boulder, the zoo's main landmark (which actually covers a water tower) has been touched up, but isn't quite ready to host visitors for its panoramic views, officials said. When it does it may help lure visitors out to the zoo's site near the eastern suburb of Vincennes, and away from Paris' many other highlights.

WHAT'S NEW?

When the zoo temporarily closed in 2008, its crumbling displays were a safety hazard. Without major refurbishment since its opening in 1934, the zoo was a concrete jungle of traditional animal cages. Now managers trumpet an unparalleled, top-to-bottom renovation: Winding pathways, lush vegetation, and 21st-century displays with fewer fences and cages - and clever landscaping to separate the wildlife from its watchers. The greenhouse as long as a football field features not-so-shy grey-winged trumpeters strutting across a walkway (and at times pecking at photographers' camera lenses), and a lethargic West Indian manatee.

WHAT MAKES THIS ZOO DIFFERENT?

Instead of by type, the animals have been grouped by region of origin - and there are five: Madagascar, Patagonia, Guyana, Europe and Sahel-Sudan, the largest single area in the zoo and home to African savannah roamers. Rolling terrain and artificial rocks point to the effort to re-create the natural ecosystems, as best possible. "It's like a journey around the planet," said zoo director Sophie Ferreira Le Morvan. Giraffes and ostriches co-habit one display area, zebras and rhinos another. A male lion, somewhat understandably, has his own pen until three lionesses arrive.

WHAT ARE THE STAR ATTRACTIONS?

Giraffes. Zoo officials say the 16 giraffes - some with ancestors that were here in 1934 - amount to the largest grouping of its kind in Europe. The giraffes' indoor dwelling offers face-to-face viewing. While many animals were shipped away to other zoos during the renovation, the giraffes stayed put, to literally "oversee" the work, as the cheeky zookeepers put it. The lion called Neron (the French namesake of Roman emperor Nero) and pack of European wolves are likely kid-friendly sights.

HOW DIFFICULT HAS THE REOPENING BEEN?

Most of the animals that left for the renovation won't be returning, so like modern-day counterparts of Noah the zookeepers have had to bring in new ones. To make sure the animals are happy in their new digs the staff are letting the creatures adapt at their own speed - sometimes a snail's pace. One young addax was spooked at the unfamiliar sight of zebras. Due to space constraints, there are no elephants. Chief veterinarian Alexis Lecu said the one animal he wants is a platypus, but "we'll have to ask the Australian government."

BY THE NUMBERS

The zoo has some 180 species - including 74 bird and 42 mammal species - totaling over 1,000 animals (aside from the insects). The budget for the renovation, under a public-private partnership, was 167 million euros ($230 million). Signage at the displays is French only, but audio guides are available in several languages. Full-rate admission ranges from 11 euros (about $15) for kids aged 3 to 11, to 22 euros for adults.

Travelore Tips: 5 Recommended Events In Paris For 2014

Paris. The name is synonymous with love, beauty, art, culture … the list goes on. No matter the time of year, there’s a seemingly endless of festivals, parades, sporting events and cultural attractions to take in.

If you’re planning a weekend getaway or (even better) an extended stay in Paris this year, be sure to check out these top five events for 2014!

Sunset in Paris, France © Moyan Brenn

#1: Six Nations Rugby (February/March)

Every year, France goes head-to-head with five other European nations (Italy, England, Wales, Ireland, and Scotland) in the Six Nations Rugby international. At roughly 120 years old, this championship match series is officially the world’s oldest rugby tournament. What’s more, since its inception, France claims the title has the “most successful”, so it’s quite a treat to see the champs play on their home turf.

#2: Paris Carnival (March)

Since 1274, the time-honored Carnaval de Paris has been led by a real-live cow simply dubbed the Fat Cow. Throughout this single-day event, proud Parisians – including musicians and boisterous trumpeters – march through the city streets on the way to Hôtel de Ville (Town Hall). Check out www.frenchaffair.com.au for more information.

#3: Paris Marathon (April)

New York, London, Antarctica (!) … seemginly every corner of the globe offers an (in)famous annual marathon. But there’s just something so special about running the streets of France’s most popular city. While hailed by tens of thousands of spectators, runners enjoy the unique opportunity of racing past the city’s best known landmarks, including the Place de la Bastille and Champs-Élysées (among others). Kids are even invited to join in with a 1-mile breakfast run the day before the marathon, so it’s a true family event! You can register online at www.parismarathon.com.

#4: Jardin Shakespeare (June – September)

Every year, the city’s Bois de Boulogne hosts the annual Jardin Shakespeare. This open-air theater event features bards performing original Shakespeare works (as well as some from other playwrights) in both English and French language. The appropriately named concert takes its namesake from the five gardens that make up the event – every one named after a famous Shakespearean work – As You Like It, The Tempest, Hamlet, A Midsummer Night’s Dream, and Macbeth.

#5: High Heel Race (December)

And now for something truly unique (and bizarre) … Paris’s annual High Heel Race is about as strange as it gets. The gist is simple: teams of women run as fast as possible at various Parisian monuments. It’s actually part of a worldwide competition put on by Sarenza shoes. Sure, it’s basically one big marketing ploy. But it works!

Read more at http://www.vagabondish.com/travel-paris-events-2014/#Z3m6wyS77MR85eMR.99

Travelore Tips: An Insiders Guide To The Secret Parts Of Paris

derekskey via www.flickr.com creative commons

See and do

Eglise St-Etienne-du-Mont

This is one of my favourite Paris churches, both for its architecture, which is an endearing mix of renaissance and gothic, and as an insight into Paris' history: it is home to the shrine of Saint Geneviève, patron saint of Paris, who saved the city from invasion by Attila the Hun in 451. Inside is a magnificent 16th-century stone rood screen, possibly designed by François 1er's architect Philippe Delorme, and a massive baroque pulpit. The ornate neo-gothic shrine, transferred here when the adjoining abbey church of St Geneviève was demolished in 1807, is surrounded by ex-voto plaques. Combine this visit with the Panthéon on the same square.

www.saintetiennedumont.fr

Fondation Le Corbusier

The modernist houses and studios of the 16th arrondissement were one of my great discoveries when I first moved here. They are a reminder that for all its historic heritage, Paris is also one of the birthplaces of modern architecture. Corbusier designed these two adjoining villas in 1923-25. Here you find all of his five principles of architecture (stilts, reinforced concrete, roof terraces, strip windows, ingenious built-in furniture), with a fascinating play of volumes and a use of colour that goes far beyond the white box cliché. The foundation also runs Corbusier's apartment-studio at 24 rue Nungesser et Coli, open on Saturdays.

www.fondationlecorbusier.fr

Jardin des Serres d'Auteuil

Also known as "the municipal gardener", these elaborate, late 19th-century greenhouses were built to cultivate plants for municipal parks. The ensemble is grouped around a magnificent central tropical greenhouse, filled with steamy palms, an aviary and pools of Japanese carp. Other greenhouses are devoted to orchids, azaleas, succulents and ferns, while the formal gardens contain many rare trees. Get there before the site is decimated: there are plans to demolish some of the greenhouses to allow room for more tennis courts for Roland Garros next door.

www.equipement.paris.fr/jardin-des-serres-d-auteuil-1780

Parc des Buttes-Chaumont

Of all the parks created in the 1860s by Baron Haussmann and his engineer Jean-Charles Alphand, this is the one that I find the most Romantic with a capital R, with its lake and fake crags, bridges, waterfall, giant cedars and unlikely palm trees. There's even a cave, with fake stalactites. Pony rides and playgrounds make it great for kids. The rolling lawns are pleasant for sunbathing or a picnic, although you can also eat at the trendy bar/restaurant/nightspot Rosa Bonheur. Climb up to the Temple de la Sybille, modelled on the temple at Tivoli, for a superb view over Paris.

www.equipement.paris.fr/parc-des-buttes-chaumont-1757

Musée Marmottan-Claude Monet

This Second Empire villa is one of Paris’s secret gems, with its wonderful array of Empire furniture and the world’s largest collection of works by Claude Monet, most of them donated by the artist’s family. Among the paintings are Monet’s Impression, Soleil Levant, which gave its name to impressionism. I adore Monet's vibrantly coloured late canvases of his water garden at Giverny, as well as Berthe Morisot's affectionate paintings of children. Other impressionist painters on display include Pissarro, Renoir, Manet, Degas and Caillebotte. Don't miss the Sèvres porcelain geographical clock, either, which shows when it is midday around the world.

www.marmottan.com

Musée Bourdelle

This little-known museum built around Antoine Bourdelle's studio and apartment gives an insight into Montparnasse in its artistic heyday. While not a major sculptor, Bourdelle is an interesting in art history, as he was an assistant of Rodin and teacher of Giacometti. He specialised in monumental sculptures, including the frieze for the Théâtre des Champs-Elysées and an equestrian monument to Argentine general Alvear. Another gallery shows how he endlessly reworked the head of Beethoven in different moods. At the rear, a row of studios includes those of Bourdelle and Eugène Carrière, left in atmospherically dusty state. Montparnasse is still littered with artists' studios – look out for the big north-facing windows.

www.bourdelle.paris.fr

La Conciergerie

While hundreds queue for the Sainte-Chapelle a few doors up, far fewer visit the Conciergerie, yet both were part of the medieval palace of the Capetian kings. With its two impressive vaulted halls, it is one of France's finest secular gothic structures but for me it is also the sight that best evokes the French Revolution. After the monarchy moved to the Louvre, the Conciergerie became a prison and hundreds passed by here on their way to the guillotine. Refurbished prison cells show how conditions varied according to status from communal cells with straw on the floor to furnished individual cells for the privileged. The cell where Marie-Antoinette was imprisoned is now a chapel.

www.conciergerie.monuments-nationaux.fr

Eat

L'Encrier

Tucked just behind the Promenade Plantée viaduct walk in the historic furniture makers' district of the Faubourg St-Antoine, the friendly, cooperative-run L'Encrier has been one of Paris's best-kept, budget secrets for 20 years. An essentially local crowd and a few in-the-know visitors squeeze in around its simple wooden tables, drawn by the remarkable-value menus and attractive beamed setting. The kitchen, visible behind the white counter, sends out trustworthy, no-nonsense French cuisine with southwestern touches, such as pear with roquefort, duck confit and goose magret, and virtually everyone ends with the excellent chocolate profiteroles.

www.restaurant-encrier-paris.fr

Michi

Located in the heart of Paris's Little Japan, Michi is a tiny, canteen-like hole in the wall, indicated only by a fish and the word sushi on the facade. It was recommended by a Japanese friend, for some of the best, authentic, and least expensive, sushi and sashimi along rue Sainte-Anne. If you're lucky, bag one of the half-a-dozen places along the counter where you can watch the chef at work, otherwise you'll be squashed into the tiny cellar. There are good-value formules, but go à la carte if you want rarer offerings such as sea urchin and eel.

58 bis rue Sainte-Anne, 75002

L'Ourcine

Reopened after a lengthy restoration of the 17th-century building, this is one of my favourite bistros. I like it for its reliable cuisine, relaxed chatty atmosphere and eclectic Left Bank clientele. Sylvain Danière was part of La Régalade clan in the days of Yves Camdeborde, and he keeps up the credo of revisited regional cuisine, produced from a tiny kitchen spied through a wooden dresser at the rear. Fresh fish delivered daily from Brittany and seasonal game in autumn are particularly good, and there are also plenty of fans for the delicious chocolately desserts.

www.restaurant-lourcine.fr

Bistrot du Peintre

This listed, art nouveau café-bistro has a gorgeous 1902 décor of sinuous woodwork and tiled, allegorical figures of spring and summer. It is much loved by a laidback Bastille crowd for its satisfying, inexpensive cuisine. The choice goes from utterly trad snails or oeuf meurette ((egg poached in red wine), steak tartare and some southwestern French touches – my daughter's a fan of the confit de canard – to inventive salads and creative tomato Tatin with red pepper sorbet, so there's sure to be something to suit different tastes. All-day service is very useful when you’re on holiday. Try to be seated on the more atmospheric ground floor rather than upstairs.

www.bistrotdupeintre.com

Shop

Marché Place Monge

Paris has over 80 outdoor food markets but this is my favourite, especially on Sunday when it's a busy local rendezvous. Several stalls where you can buy direct from producers remind that the Ile de France and nearby Picardy are still market gardening regions. Specialists sell organic (biologique) salads and vegetables, apples and potatoes, and there are also excellent cheese stalls, fresh fish from Boulogne and Dieppe, and a few other options – DVDs, saucepans and Turkish jeweller Mr Saygi. There's all you need for a picnic in the nearby Jardin des Arènes (the ruins of Paris's Roman arena), including roast chickens, Lebanese snacks and a charcuterie stall that does steaming choucroute.

www.equipement.paris.fr/marche-monge-5464

Marché Aligre

Aligre is actually three markets in one. The outdoor fruit and veg market, famed for the lowest prices in Paris, is an experience all of its own for its crowded, noisy atmosphere and the cries and banter of rival stallholders. Produce, including exotic hot peppers and mounds of coriander, often gets cheaper as the morning progresses, and the crowds are almost suffocating on Sunday. The covered Marché Beauvau is a more upmarket affair with good butchers, a wine stall and Italian deli. There's also a small and very shabby flea market on the square, mainly a source of second-hand books, household china and piles of old clothes.

www.equipement.paris.fr/marche-couvert-beauvau-marche-d-aligre-5480

E. Dehillerin

The legendary kitchen emporium has been supplying professional chefs and keen amateur cooks for nearly two centuries, a relic of the days when cooks came to buy their supplies at the nearby Les Halles wholesale market. Inside, wooden shelves are stacked high with every imaginable pan and utensil, spatulas and ladles, obscure paring knives, moulds and truffle graters, and items come in every size, whether you are cooking for one or for five hundred. Experienced staff can lead you to exactly what you want.

www.e-dehillerin.fr

Drink

Le Comptoir Général

Le Comptoir Général bills itself as a "ghetto museum", a not-for-profit exhibition space, bookshop, bric-a-brac store and bar, all of whose takings go back to the entreprise's charity concerns. The bar, Le Rade, is arguably the centre of attention. The "shabby chic" furniture is accompanied by African curiosities, school chairs and stuffed animals. The signature cocktail, the "Secousse," is a secret recipe containing bissap, an infusion of hibiscus flower. Check the calendar of events on the website or ring in advance: though the bar is generally open to the public, it is often hired out for private events. It's also worth coming in the week, as queues at the bar at weekends can be horrendous. Although drink prices are low, a donation is required on entry.

www.lecomptoirgeneral.com

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Contributed by Natasha Edwards, The Telegraph.

Read more: http://www.businessinsider.com/a-guide-to-the-secret-parts-of-paris-2014-1#ixzz2rjuymplq